Happy Birthday to me (280z build)

[drummingpariah]

Disassembly started.


While I'm not looking for much more than stock power levels (250-300whp), this will be a daily driver so I at least need a good reliable starting point. The first crank and associated bearings are pretty much toast. Hopefully the second is in good shape, then I'll start taking measurements on the bores to see which block is worth keeping (if either are, or both). I have no plans for a crazy forged build or anything, just reproducing stock power levels with a little less weight (alu heads) and slightly more oomph (cam), with a carb on top for ease of installation.

I'm definitely looking for used components (distributor, starter, bellhousing, input shaft, alternator, carb, intake manifold), so if anyone has stuff sitting on a shelf somewhere, let me know!

[Challenger392]

A 302 should have more than enough power in stock form. Never underestimate what a "small" displacement V8 can do (i.e. The howe mod is a mighty 318 ci). If your going to be replacing heads, you may want to check this out http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/116 ... e-buildup/

[drummingpariah]

A 302 should have more than enough power in stock form. Never underestimate what a "small" displacement V8 can do (i.e. The howe mod is a mighty 318 ci). If your going to be replacing heads, you may want to check this out http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/116 ... e-buildup/

AFR's are pretty impressive all around, but my primary motive for going to alu heads is simply weight. I've considered them a few times, but just going with some gt40 heads (around $400/set or so) meets that need, without spending anything extra on more power. I didn't realize that was just a 318ci under your ... erm ... hood? That thing sounds amazing.

I tore down the second block, and the crank looks much more promising.


I'll measure the block bores tomorrow, and should be able to get down to the makerspace to use the nice micrometers we have down there on Wednesday. The bores look worn and glazed, but are hopefully still round enough to get away with a hone.

There was some funky noise coming out of the t5, and I think I discovered where that was coming from as well as finding out why an input shaft wasn't included.

Thankfully, the gear faces look decent, and the bearings that exist don't sound crunchy at all. I'll have to take a better look at the syncros to make sure they're serviceable, but this isn't nearly as terrifying as I expected my first transmission teardown to be.

[drummingpariah]

I'm no machinist ... but apparently this t5 is. These are the big chunks I pulled out of it, and a quick run with a magnet pulled out a few ounces of ferrous sludge from the bottom.

 
There's one chunk still in there, but I may just drop the whole thing off at a transmission shop if the price is reasonable. Have them disassemble it, replace the syncros, and while it's apart that piece should just fall out on its own.

[sdwarf36]

Just throw it out. All those parts in the bottom didn't just FALL down there nice + clean. They got chewed thru the remaining gears. They are surely nicked/chipped/bent/cracked.

[drummingpariah]

I was really really hoping to hear, "Don't worry about it, mine has been through waaaay worse back in 1980-whatever." ... but I was planning on replacing it. I just sourced another that I should be able to pick up next weekend, and the owner said it was 'recently rebuilt'. I hope that means 'competently rebuilt' but I guess I'll find out later. Until I pick that up, I'll continue inspection of the 302 long blocks, and my dial bore gauge just arrived (woohoo!)


I haven't had a chance to go down to the makerspace to mic the crank yet, but hope to do that this weekend.

[drummingpariah]

Finally, some good news. I measured the bores on the block with a good-looking crank. The worst out-of-round on block #1 is .00175", tolerance is .005". The worst taper difference is .00150", where tolerance is .010". The worst bore tolerance overall is .002", where tolerance is .04". With modest power goals (250ft/lbs is enough to make me happy), this block looks really promising.



I still need to get down to the makerspace to measure the crank journals, and I'm definitely looking for advice on DIY magnetic particle inspection (magnaflux). I have access to ridiculously powerful magnets, I just don't know what kind of media to use yet.

[drummingpariah]

The micrometer told me that all of the crank journals are all within .001" of factory spec, which is close enough for me. I don't have the tooling to measure runout, but I'm getting to the point where I'm comfortable with just honing this and putting it together. I still need to order my re-ring kit (it looks like both of these blocks are from 1991 Thunderbirds, so around $225 each for a complete re-ring kit), reassemble, and put some pushrods/lifters/heads (both blocks are rollers) on them.

Once that's finished, it's bellhousing/transmission/accessories time.

[dsldubn]

very easy to hit your power goals with that engine...like really easy

have fun, should scoot when done

[drummingpariah]

On the 'project planning board', I change gears more like Sherman than Kevin. That is to say: Always.

I spent some time nerding out on the classification sheet, and can't come up with a way for the 302 to be viable in the street prepared class I'd like to be in. It's pretty light already, and the only class I could get into on street tires is sp2. I'd much prefer sp4 or sp5, which seems to be more inline with where my driving skills are right now anyway. As a result, the 302's are up for sale (along with the two world class t5's), and I just started down a different path. The l28et is probably going to stay in the engine bay for 2016, just so I don't overwhelm myself, but right now this is what's on my bench.



It might be a mistake, I haven't inspected any components, but I can't visually identify any problems with it. I'm going to have to do some reading to figure out what to measure and see if it's usable. Luckily, all the expensive stuff (and all the accessories) are included, and I already have the car wired for Megasquirt. I'll need injectors ... or I can finally put these to use.