1973 VW Super-Beetle(1303) Hill-Climb Build

[Super1303]

Now that I have some work to do on my cage that required some more tubing, on order, I'll jump to installing the front fenders.

Flared fiber glass fenders 1-1/2" in front, 3" in back.
OK, let me give some advise...... If your calling to order some fiber glass fenders for a Bug from some shop in 'Nevada' an you think there high? Well........
The fit of the fenders was to be desired. RH front was horrible LH fit better but still not right. The rear; same, neither fit right, oh well ain't a show car.

The Front fenders.



Marking out, on the body, where to drill the holes.




Taping fender in place.


This is the area to make fit correctly for obvious reasons!


Transferring marks to fender to drill the holes.




I like to cut the mounting flange of the fenders. This makes the fender a lot easier to flex/bend into shape.
Measuring the body seam to just under the threaded hole, enough to fit a washer. Then I'm going to transfer this to the fender.






Cutting along the scribed line. I like to use a Wizz Wheel just letting the blade protrude enough to break thru.


The measurement here is 15mm. Squaring up to the fender I mark my holes out.







This is the best tool for this job. Blair Rotabroch, Very clean holes. I'm using a 7/16" bit the extra room seems to work out well. I like the center point to be Sharp as well!




First fit of the fenders w/bolts reveled some of the holes need adjusting. Arrow represents direction of slot.


I use a rough carbide to slot the hole. Normally used for gouging out aluminum for welding. Works pretty slick.




There! Needs a little tweaking but the fit is good.








And a shot of the rear fenders.

[sdwarf36]

Real race cars don't have fenders!

[minirally]

wow,look great !!!!

[Super1303]

Real race cars don't have fenders!

Phhhh....

[Super1303]

wow,look great !!!!

Thanks Man!

[dsldubn]

awesome, looking forward to this one.

engine plans?

[Super1303]

awesome, looking forward to this one.

engine plans?

A 9000 RPM,230-HP Type-4 monster stroked to 2.9L, Billit crank, Plated Aluminum cylinders, J-E pistons, Scat split port heads, Megasqurit FI........... OK I'm dreaming.
I keep playing the lotto.....

Long rod, 69X92, 1835cc. The plan is to get 120~140HP @ 4000~7000 RPM
But I haven't committed yet so I might stroke it to 78mm for some more torque.
I have a tight budget and to get this car on the hill for 2014 I got to use some of the stuff I have. Like dual Solex 40/44's.
Talked to some dudes in Calli and they claim to be getting 130-HP shifting to 7000, I don't know..... Sound High for two single throat carbs.

Since were on this subject I'd like to ask what top speed I should be geared for?
Not that I'm going to get there but if I could, I'm thinking 120mph @ redline in 4th which would set me up for a low enough ratio to still pull 4th gear shifting from 3rd @ 70~80 mph.
Is this a good compromise for all the hills? Any suggestions?

[dsldubn]

nice, should scoot along nicely. even 120hp will be strong, the car cant' weigh much done

I'm the wrong one to chime in for top speed, but I'd say 120mph is plenty. I think the top 10 cars only come close to that at a couple spots on certain hills. Check out the radar speeds from last year and you'll see the max and averages. I'm only like 100hp diesel, and I think I was hitting 81 per the radar on the straights, so like I said I'm the wrong to chime in, but that max speed is plenty. Corner exit speed matters more anyway

http://www.hillclimb.org/events/results ... _radar.pdf

As for the solex carbs making in the 100s for hp, I bet it's possible...but they must suffer a bit on the top. I run a single one of those on my willys Jeep with the old Lhead. With the header and intake manifold I built for it, I must be making 62hp...so maybe two carbs will flow enough for 120 that's my math anyway

keep at it, looking forward to more updates

[Super1303]

[quote="dsldubn"]
I'm the wrong one to chime in for top speed, but I'd say 120mph is plenty. I think the top 10 cars only come close to that at a couple spots on certain hills. Check out the radar speeds from last year and you'll see the max and averages. I'm only like 100hp diesel, and I think I was hitting 81 per the radar on the straights, so like I said I'm the wrong to chime in, but that max speed is plenty. Corner exit speed matters more anyway

Yea the guy was talkin this an that, I don't know, he said if done correctly like I do..... You'll get 130.
Every thing I see with those carbs are in the 95 range. The others run 40ida Webbers.

Thanks for the link looks like 100~110 is plenty I doubt I'll max out. What's the fastest hill, Okemo?
I'm figuring around 30 mph for the exit speed in 2nd @ 3800rpm? Sound reasonable?
I'd just like to get all the ratios tight, my thinking is, if I set a limit the at 120, or whatever, I know I'll use 3rd and dip into 4th when needed.
Like, If I set it too high like at 140 mph or maybe 120 the ratio will start to steep and I'll never be able to pull it. Same thing with second, if it starts two steep I'll be dipping 1st for, like, 1500 rpm's and that would get annoying.

[Mopar 151w2]

Close ratio 3rd and 4th are readily available, and will REALLY help on the hills. Burke is the real test on gearing - 17% grade avg, flat-out to Check 2 for all but bad-ass V-8's and Sherm's micro-missle. And if the 3-4 shift drops RPM below the torque peak, it'll feel like the car fucking stalls!
I'd gear for about 105 mph at rev limit - you might "tickle" the limiter at the end of the Okemo straight. You'll want to use the smallest diameter tires reasonably possible - The benefits of lowering the car are big, but lowering the gear ratio, and making the brakes stronger is the real payoff. And, if you want longer gears for the track, taller tires can get you there easy.