1973 VW Super-Beetle(1303) Hill-Climb Build

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sdwarf36
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Re: My 1974 1303 I bought for a dollar

Post by sdwarf36 »

2100cc? I think. I know it had dual Webers.
Translating road racing to hillclimbing:
Proper tire selection== nothing hooks up on moss or wet leaves.
Staying on the racing line==anything paved is considered good.
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Super1303
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Re: My 1974 1303 I bought for a dollar

Post by Super1303 »

OK, so I got some more Black pipe from the local hard-wear store and I'm going to finish up my cage.
No seriously, It's 1-5/8" DOM, mild carbon steel. I'm going to finish up this cage this weekend, hopefully. I will be tacking all the tubes in place, at this time, just in-case someone see's something that ain't right. I'll try to keep that to a minimum. I decided to weld in the backstays and not make them removable.
I also would like to tie them to the chassis where the bottom of backstay terminates. I'll post pictures of that idea later.

JD Squared Model-3 Tube Bender. I just Bought it to fix/finish this cage. I'm really excited about it.
I feel like this addition to the tool crib steps me up to a hole new level of fabrication possibilities.
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Assessing the job. As recommended, and necessary as explained, I will install a V in the roof bar. The point of connection, on the main roll bar, will match up with the V in the backstay to form an X. I skipped a couple of steps in this write up. I'll get more elaborate with the backstay, I think that will be more fun anyway.
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Before shot to get some idea of where it would be if a straight section of tube.
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The Pipe in question. Ya'll like Bruce Lee? I just watched The Game Of Death, Killer flick.
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Setting tube in bender.
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Lubing the tube guide. I like Marvel Mystery oil and Dex/Merc 50/50.
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Pre loading the tube to set Zero.
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Bending up the other half of the V. 29-1/4" with two 18' bends.
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Checking the fit.

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Tacking it in place after final fit.
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There. Tacked in place, looks good matches up well. Tomorrow is another day to finish the backstay.

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Last edited by Super1303 on Tue Feb 20, 2018 10:26 am, edited 4 times in total.
Hello, my name is Evan and I'm a Volksaholic.
1973 Super Beetle, #666
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walterclark
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Re: My 1974 1303 I bought for a dollar

Post by walterclark »

That piece looks good. Nice tube bender. Too bad you arent building the whole thing from scratch now. It looks like there is a good bit of space between the hoop, halo and A-pillar bars to get closer to the body giving you the opportunity to weld the cage to the body in some of those areas and more room inside... from your work so far it is obvious to me that you could do it.

When you are selecting the chassis anchor/termination points for the backstays try to choose a feature that is not only strong but where the load from the hoop would be more in compression and less in sheer. e.g. the front-top of a rear strut tower (versus the inside vertical surface) or to a reinforced part the floor. If you need to go to something like a vertical firewall, then that area should be reinforced with plating and something triangulating it to the frame added.
The older I get the better I was.
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sachilles
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Re: My 1974 1303 I bought for a dollar

Post by sachilles »

Darth Vader does not seem amused.
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Sachilles
02 Subaru impreza (Donut) #66
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Super1303
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Re: My 1974 1303 I bought for a dollar

Post by Super1303 »

[quote="sachilles"]Darth Vader does not seem amused.

Yea, he gave me the "your powers are week" bit after handing him his bill, well, you can see where that went.
Hello, my name is Evan and I'm a Volksaholic.
1973 Super Beetle, #666
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Super1303
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Re: My 1974 1303 I bought for a dollar

Post by Super1303 »

walterclark wrote:That piece looks good. Nice tube bender. Too bad you arent building the whole thing from scratch now. It looks like there is a good bit of space between the hoop, halo and A-pillar bars to get closer to the body giving you the opportunity to weld the cage to the body in some of those areas and more room inside... from your work so far it is obvious to me that you could do it.

When you are selecting the chassis anchor/termination points for the backstays try to choose a feature that is not only strong but where the load from the hoop would be more in compression and less in sheer. e.g. the front-top of a rear strut tower (versus the inside vertical surface) or to a reinforced part the floor. If you need to go to something like a vertical firewall, then that area should be reinforced with plating and something triangulating it to the frame added.
Yes that spacing was one of the things that I wasn't very happy about. It's always like that tho. But now to tie into the front strut towers is possible.
So if I want to tie into the chassis or suspension or add a gusset do I have to use the same size tube if it isn't a 'structural' part of the cage?
Example: Front hoop to front strut tower with a 1-1/2" X .095" Or 1" X .120" used as a gusset.
I'm sure I'll be redoing the cage after a couple of seasons. I'd like to run Mt. Washington but I'd like a little/lot more seat time before that happens.
Hello, my name is Evan and I'm a Volksaholic.
1973 Super Beetle, #666
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Super1303
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Re: My 1974 1303 I bought for a dollar

Post by Super1303 »

My friend Tharon. "Ah haa.... Ah haa.... Before you finish the backstays you might want to finish mounting the body to the pan...."
Damn, your right... So due to his observation he was summoned to help with the task! Nothing real interesting but part of the build.
Good thing was VERY careful measuring before removing the old pans, for replacement, payed off. The bolt holes lined up perfect!
I'm going to let it sit for a day to settle the gasket before final torquing and welding in the backstay.

Removing the body from the pan.

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Cleaning the sealing surface with alcohol.

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Laying down the pan gasket.

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Bolting the body back down. I like to work the bolts a little at a time, front to back, side to side.
As a note, I don't have a picture of it, I make guide pins to help line things up. basically old bolt with the heads cut off and a slice the top for a screw driver for removal.
Same trick for swinging in a SBC or anything really.

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Good night!!
Last edited by Super1303 on Tue Feb 20, 2018 10:38 am, edited 2 times in total.
Hello, my name is Evan and I'm a Volksaholic.
1973 Super Beetle, #666
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sdwarf36
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Re: My 1974 1303 I bought for a dollar

Post by sdwarf36 »

Super1303 wrote:
walterclark wrote:That piece looks good. Nice tube bender. Too bad you arent building the whole thing from scratch now. It looks like there is a good bit of space between the hoop, halo and A-pillar bars to get closer to the body giving you the opportunity to weld the cage to the body in some of those areas and more room inside... from your work so far it is obvious to me that you could do it.

When you are selecting the chassis anchor/termination points for the backstays try to choose a feature that is not only strong but where the load from the hoop would be more in compression and less in sheer. e.g. the front-top of a rear strut tower (versus the inside vertical surface) or to a reinforced part the floor. If you need to go to something like a vertical firewall, then that area should be reinforced with plating and something triangulating it to the frame added.
Yes that spacing was one of the things that I wasn't very happy about. It's always like that tho. But now to tie into the front strut towers is possible.
So if I want to tie into the chassis or suspension or add a gusset do I have to use the same size tube if it isn't a 'structural' part of the cage?
Example: Front hoop to front strut tower with a 1-1/2" X .095" Or 1" X .120" used as a gusset.
I'm sure I'll be redoing the cage after a couple of seasons. I'd like to run Mt. Washington but I'd like a little/lot more seat time before that happens.
Chop the top. It will make it easier to tie it in --and will look cool too. 8-)
Translating road racing to hillclimbing:
Proper tire selection== nothing hooks up on moss or wet leaves.
Staying on the racing line==anything paved is considered good.
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Super1303
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Location: 935 US Route 5, Sutton, Vermont 05867
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Re: My 1974 1303 I bought for a dollar

Post by Super1303 »

sdwarf36 wrote "Chop the top. It will make it easier to tie it in --and will look cool too." 8-)

Yea right. You gonna help? :lol:
Hey, love you new avatar, wicked!
Hello, my name is Evan and I'm a Volksaholic.
1973 Super Beetle, #666
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sdwarf36
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Re: My 1974 1303 I bought for a dollar

Post by sdwarf36 »

""Hey, love you new avatar, wicked!""

Too much Helium in my tires. 8-)
Translating road racing to hillclimbing:
Proper tire selection== nothing hooks up on moss or wet leaves.
Staying on the racing line==anything paved is considered good.
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