NHOR-Landcruisin builds another Subaru

[sachilles]

Damn you're tall. That'll be interesting.
I'd find a seat first then check head clearance.

[Landcruisin60]

Damn you're tall. That'll be interesting.
I'd find a seat first then check head clearance.

Haha yeah being tall presents some issues. I threw my stock wrx seat in as something to work off of. Its quite tall. I think a seat 3-4in lower than the stock WRX seat would be perfect. I'm discussing getting some Corbeau Forza seats from a member on here. You dont happen to have that Cobra seat still kicking around? Basically I'd like a cheap but safe seat to get me through for a while and then buy a nice one.

[sachilles]

Still have it.
Welcome to come try it out.

[Landcruisin60]

Well I met up with Seth this evening and bought his seat. Not sure I'll keep it as a drivers seat, the headrest is a little too low for me...haha I wasnt kidding about being tall. But for the time being it will work well to mock up my harness bar and work to drive around in for the time being. Might pick up a Corbeau FX1 Pro as the drivers seat and throw the cobra in for the passenger.

Anyway got the windshield bar in and a single roof brace. Made gussets for the windshield bar and tomorrow I'll make gussets for the roof brace and then I can weld the whole thing together and move on to the back.

[KevinGale]

Don't forget the "Flemke" bar. It's not required but a vertical bar to prevent the A pillar from collapsing is a real good idea and is recommended in our rules.

[Landcruisin60]

Don't forget the "Flemke" bar. It's not required but a vertical bar to prevent the A pillar from collapsing is a real good idea and is recommended in our rules.

I had thought about adding one but I feel as though it would make getting in and out of the car much more difficult with my long legs.

[sachilles]

Think of it this way. It'll make it easier for you to get out should end up on your roof. It makes a lot of sense for cars who's A-pillar bar is a shallow angle.

[Landcruisin60]

I'd agree with you if this was a race car with a side of DD. But this is the car I will be driving too and from work, running errands in and racing once a month. I'll go without one for the time being, maybe once I start running fast I'll add one. I dont really expect myself to be running blazing speeds right away. Essentially there are 2 reasons why I'm caging it now. Because at some point I plan to have it be really fast and its a lot easier to build a cage with the car stripped to a shell than after I WRX swap it and there's all sorts of interior and wiring that would either have to be removed or be in the way. Secondly because I have all the tools in my garage to build a cage. If it werent for that I wouldnt have a cage.

[Rabbit Farmer]

Create the bar, tape it into place, see if it gets in the way once you start DDing the car. If it doesn't, weld it in. If it does, weld it in when you're ready.

[Mopar 151]

A couple views of "Flemke" bars, with "Steady Eddie" himself at the wheel


This bar was named for Eddie after he collapsed the roof of the Bob Judkins 2X, one of the first Pinto body modifieds - Gene Bergin at the wheel here - note the long unsupported span of the right side "A" pillar
Eddie here

You can see in this CSC schematic that the Flemke bar does not always go to the top of the A pillar


Take a look at these Howe cages, to see a couple other ways to reinforce the A pillar
http://www.howeracing.com/p-7330-offset.aspx
http://www.howeracing.com/p-7868-perime ... -race.aspx

A "Rally style" cage with side bars - I might suggest leaving out the leg of the X in the door (upper right in this picture) , as it is more limiting to swinging long legs in/out than the A pillar reinforcement or the other 3 legs of the X. (Big Galoot myself....)
Oh yeah - take the opprutunity to tie the cage posts into the inner rocker panels ( like the pictured rally car) as well as using the foot plates - which our rules require.