Tuning a Mazda 2

[hammer]

I have a question for the Mazda guys out there. I have a Mazda 2 that I'm working on getting ready for hill climbing this summer. It's already a great handling little car, but lacks a bit in the power department (100hp stock). I've installed an Injen Cold Air Intake and HKS axle-back exhaust. There is a noticeable increase in power already but I'm curious if a remap of the ECU would be beneficial for the engine to fully take advantage of the increased airflow and decreased restriction on the exhaust. My question is if anyone knows how difficult it is to hack into the Mazda ECU and, if possible, would I see much benefit power-wise. If so, what are my options with where to have this work done? I live in Richmond VT, so the Burlington area would be preferable, though anywhere within a few hours could work. Thanks!
-Hammer

[walterclark]

I dont know Mazda2 so I looked up tuning.

What I got was this...

The rev limiter on a stock motor is something like 6300 RPM which causes you to drop to 3000 on each upshift. Problem is the power band is 4000+. So one of the key to a reflash is getting the rev limiter to let you get to 7300.

With a NA engine dont expect to get lots of added HP. Mazda isnt going to leave much on the table with a stock tune because there just isnt a lot to be wasted.

A tune can get you a little more advance if you run higher grade fuel and maps for the 6300-7300 range, both spell more power under the curve. Increasing flow in the intake and exhaust may actually hurt torque in the lower RPM range a bit but can help at the upper end and a tune should take these into account.

ne name I read is held in regard is Andy Hollis. He autocrosses and apparently he was involved in one of the tuner packages available for the 2 - from Dynotronics. That is a custom tune based on your level of modification so it sounds reasonable. Another thing that sounds reasonable is they dont make unbelievable power increase claims.

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthre ... ost6061088

[hammer]

Thanks for the response!
I read the whole thread and it does seem promising, if a bit pricey. Though the conversation seems to have died a few weeks ago and I don't know how comfortable I'd be mailing my ECU to texas with $500...One thing that caught my attention was that the ECUs have fuel and ignition trims that learn over time. This makes me wonder if after a while of driving, the computer will learn to utilize the added air coming into the engine?

[Challenger392]

I recommend the 7300 rpm redline that could be quite fun.

[hammer]

7300 rpm would definitely be nice! Though I have found some conflicting information. Andy Hollis on that other forum claims that the 1-2 shift at redline drops you down to 3k rpm. However I experimented a little bit today and found that in my car the same 1-2 redline shift only drops to just about 4k rpm, perhaps a tad less. I'm very curious as to why this would be different. The only thing I can think of is that his gearing is different than mine for some reason, which doesn't make any sense. Or perhaps he has the 4 speed auto, which would likely drop more rpm between shifts because the gears are spaced further apart. But that doesn't make much sense either because why would you be tuning an automatic?

[walterclark]

From the online info I come up with 6300 in 1st should equal 3500 in second. I found 3.3 first gear and 1.84 second gear for the 2011 here: http://www.vibratesoftware.com/html_hel ... Mazda2.htm

[hammer]

hmm...I've found a few sites that have 1st listed as 3.41.
http://www.autoguide.com/new-cars/2012/ ... specs.html
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthre ... ssion-Wiki
http://buyersguide.caranddriver.com/maz ... da-2/specs

Though wouldn't having a higher ratio in first increase the rpm drop from 1st to second? Sorry I'm not too versed in gear ratios...

[walterclark]

Yep, the bigger the spread, the bigger the drop.

There are a bunch of online calculators and spreadsheets you can use to ompute the relations between speed RPM and gearing. Trying to solve this question you would keep final drive and tire size constant and select the gear ratio and RPM to solve for a single speed.

Its interesting that your observations dont anywhere come close to these. I wonder what is different...

[Chief Geek]

Hammer

I have a 2011 Mazda2 for commuting and, I agree completely, the engine (in OEM form) isn't special. One thing I've learned about Mazda engines (and is probably true of most other brands) is that the RPM at which the ECU stops you isn't often limited by the engine internals.

There are a million factors that would drive them to set the red-line in a particular place like alternator speed, a/c compressor clutch performance, emissions goals, etc.

I wouldn't be surprised that all of the "important" parts are cool at 7,300. The hard part is to find which of the other parts is creating the 6,300 limit ... and kill them ... ;)

I really like my Mazda2. Econobox tires limit the ultimate cornering level, but the handling is quite good (ultimately understeer, but you really have to over-cook it to make it bad). No bad habits and the light weight of the car can really be used. I did wonder what would happen if you put a Mazdaspeed3 engine and trans. in the car. I have no doubt it would fit with little more than custom engine mounts and custom length half-shafts. Maybe it would ruin the handling, but it would certainly be exciting.

Paul

[hammer]

Walter, I can't think of any reason my results would be that far off either...my testing certainly isn't scientific (just pulling from stop signs and such) but I'm certainly much closer to 4k than 3k on the shift to second. Oh well, I guess I shouldn't be complaining as I'm closer to the meat of the power when I shift!

Chief, I couldn't agree more! I've been dying for a Mazdaspeed 2 to fight the new Fiesta ST!! But I know what you mean about it not having a lot of power in stock form. Though my intake and exhaust have certainly help a little bit. If nothing else it sounds way cooler! My next upgrade will be stiffer front and rear sway bars and some stiffer springs. That should help with body roll a bit.