NEHA

Chief Geek wrote:Kevin

What year did you do that? I'd heard about the suicidal tree, but never seen the results.

Paul

2006

Challenger392 wrote:Ya I've been looking at a modified. I just need to figure out how I'm going to tow a large race car with my puny truck.

They are big but not that heavy. Mine is about 2,250 lbs.

KevinGale wrote:

Challenger392 wrote:Ya I've been looking at a modified. I just need to figure out how I'm going to tow a large race car with my puny truck.

They are big but not that heavy. Mine is about 2,250 lbs.

Problem is my 4 cylinder 2wd Toyota only outweighs your race car by 300 lb, so towing a 4000 lb ish trailer might be a stretch.

Challenger392 wrote:Problem is my 4 cylinder 2wd Toyota only outweighs your race car by 300 lb, so towing a 4000 lb ish trailer might be a stretch.

Ok I see your point. Hmm if you you put a V8 into the truck along with some lower gears and race it for a season or two ...

Heck, it wouldn't be the first 4 cylinder toyota pickup to run semi regularly with us.

Believe me I've thought about racing it. I just need it as my winter vehicle. So for now it stays stock, reliable, and practical.

Rule & Tech Committees

Do Rich and I need fireproof underwear? We don't run any risk of breaking out.

Our SA2005 helmets will arrive any day now and we're getting our non-nylon shoes, but I can't think of anything else we need.

Paul

No, just long sleeve and long leg cotton or wool clothing. Once you need a cage then the legit firesuits or Nomex type underwear become necessary. Wool is best but not the least bit comfortable in summer. Cotton is a surprisingly good choice for protective clothing provided its not greasy or sweat soaked. A number of SFI certified race suits are made from 1 or more layers of cotton - treated to enhance the ability to deflect heat to be sure, but good old cotton none-the-less. Pick tightly woven smooth cotton - avoid open weaves or fuzzy ones like cotton flannel. I suggest at least one change of both outer and underwear be available in case you get them oily or wet as either will cause problems if you are suddenly exposed to open flames...in the first case they will burn easily and in the second you will be steamed.

Avoid any material that tends to spontaneously combust, melt or shrink dramatically when in contact with a flame - that means just about anything made from threads starting with poly-. The soles of shoes can be an exception mainly because they are so thick and typically have layers that have to be burned thru to get to you. And of course Nomex is a poly but it is in the aramid class of fibers and has been engineered so that it doesnt melt (it tends to ash when combustion temp is reached and when woven into a sheet that acts to reflect external back towards the source) and due to its weave Nomex tends to wick away sweat from the body so it can evaporate (cotton absorbs sweat and holds it).

Thanks Walter.

I'll have to look for cotton shirts that aren't flannel. Living in VT, I'm not sure I've seen any other kind.

I trust clean-ish, hole-less jeans are OK for pants.

Paul

Denim is the choice for a lot of welders. Fire retardant denim (shirts and jeans) are readily available in better "workwear" outlets. A nomex or carbon underwear top makes a good pullover shirt for cheap $$$. Buy good nomex driving gloves, get used to them early, so you don't feel right without them.