NEHA

Any one know generally the weight of your average 20 ' enclosed trailer, some aluminum one I've seen online look to be around 2,000 lbs empty , I figure with a 3000 lbs car and gear I would be near 6000 lbs loaded.

my 16 ft open trailer is 1200 lbs, 2000 seems a bit light but I don't know for sure.

Looking at the Pace website, it appears that 3400 is closer to what they weigh. They make other 20 footers not designed to hold cars that are lighter.

A Fearherlite bumper pull enclosed car trailer at 20' weights in at 2900 pounds.

2240 for all aluminium, no options. similar with Cabinets, nice floor, lights, heavier axles, diamond plate ramp is 3400 pounds. Small aluminium open trailer is about 600.

Wicked nice, $17K ++++ Trailex aluminium enclosed is about 2300# a 28' Auto master is 4800# before options.


4800, my car, 1000# of tools 'n parts = more than I want to try to tow up Okemo with a 1/2 ton automatic. Should I hire out ol' Homer to spot trailers at $50 a pop?

Mopar 151 wrote:4800, my car, 1000# of tools 'n parts = more than I want to try to tow up Okemo with a 1/2 ton automatic.

I remember someone trying to convince me that my half ton pickup would be OK towing a 24' enclosed trailer. And I'm thinking not with me behind the wheel.

I'm working on getting a 24' enclosed, but my truck is 3/4 ton. Might look into additional springs or bags in the rear.

We have always towed our 28 ft enclosed fully loaded (and our 32 ft tagalong RV) with 3/4 ton trucks and they seem to pull fine. Air bags may not be a bad idea. Equalizer bars are a must.

I learned about trailering from 2 main sources - John Force and Don Jackson. From John Force, I learned the principle that guides much of my life - Nobdy should try learnin' it the way I learnt it! And from Don, and my old friend Lee Emery, "The only way I ever got to be an expert on anything was to f*^# it up every way possible first"!

That having been said - The idea expressed here to try to stick with 3/4 ton pickups and up with heavy trailers is wise, in a general sort of way. Kevin's "1/2 ton" might well be OK for several reasons - GVW rating over 6000 pounds, and V-8 powered low range in the transfer case to pull steep hills. No way you should try this with a 4500 GVW straight 6 2w/d - geared for gas mileage. Won't have enough power to make it up the hill, even in low. The heavier GVW trucks also come with tires with higher load ratings. I would'nt tow a trailer heavy enough to need brakes (3000# in NH) with less than a load range D tire on the rear axle of the truck - and I wouldn't tow much of anything without at least an LT rated tire on the tow rig.
The 10% tounge weight is a reccomended minimum, especially if things like springs, shocks, or tires are shaky. The practical limit is the weight capacity of the tow rig's tires and hitch - 50% is not too much, if the tow rig will take it. Need for equalizer bars is driven by 2 things - weight capacity of rear springs and overhang of hitch from rear axle. Remember, any of the weight the equalizer bars take off the rear axle of the tow rig is transferred to the front tires of the tow rig. When the front tires are overloaded, hilarity is sure to ensue.........

"No way you should try this with a 4500 GVW straight 6 2w/d - geared for gas mileage. Won't have enough power to make it up the hill, even in low."

remind me to tell you about Danny Rutan giving me a tow up Okemo road. Me driving slant 6 two wheel drive w/ slide-in camper and race car on trailer w/ spares.