Megasquirt Wiring
More wiring harness development. Not a lot to show, but it represents a lot of progress/cleanup/testing.
Turbo Refresh
I picked up a fresh t3, which should be a good idea for this season even though the compressor wheel is a little smaller than stock. I don't even have any kind of boost control, so I'm limited to 8psi or so. That's a safe place to be, and I'm much more worried about reliability than peak power in this, so I don't really see a downside to it. In the meantime, I can always put together an external wastegate configuration for the big Turbonetics I have doing nothing:
When power is the limiting factor on the car, I think I'll be well prepared to address it relatively easily. Reliability has to come first though.
Injectors
The turbo came with some EV1 Cobra injectors (rated at 24# @ 38psi, roughly the same as the stock l28et injectors when they were new) that I'm hoping to be able to add this month. The spray pattern from their 4-hole design is MUCH cleaner than the crusty, gunky single-hole nozzles of the l28et. I need to make sure the new fuel rail I ordered will work with these, and have been trying to find some information on exactly where these are designed to be aimed: they don't sit as deep as the stock injectors do in my spare intake manifold. I may need to have the manifold machined to get them a little closer to the valves, but I'm not sure if there's a real downside to having a nice fuel mist sprayed directly into the runners or not. I suppose I'll just have to test it out!
Again, when I'm ready to increase power, the EV1 injectors are a pretty good platform to work with. They'll need to be upgraded if I want to keep sane fuel pressures and make over 250-275hp, but that's a ways down the road anyway.
Happy Birthday to me (280z build)
- drummingpariah
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Re: Happy Birthday to me (280z build)
Looks like you bought the DIYAutoTune harness. Good move. Is it coming with the braided loom now? Mine came with the split loom. I think I like the braid better.
The older I get the better I was.
- drummingpariah
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Re: Happy Birthday to me (280z build)
Mine didn't come with any loom, but this is the 'wire bundle' - a little different from the harness because I'm using the dedicated relay cable to go from the relay board to the MS unit itself. The braided loom was a bit of a pain to figure out initially (it's friction-fit, so you can't just slide it on) but it offers mild heat insulation (up to 475F) and was an inexpensive way to organize my wires. I ordered way too much of the stuff, so I think I'm going to rewire all three of my motorcycles pretty soon (unless the xs650 sells before I get to that).
Buying as much of this as possible (rather than assembling myself) was definitely the best move I could've made, but I really wish the documentation were a bit more clear. The signal:noise ratio in Megasquirt documentation is pretty low.
I'm going to put the whole process together into one cohesive document for a 'minimum viable product' with MS and the l28et - it should help clear up a lot of questions that I couldn't get straight answers to. Just figuring out if I had a hall or optical CAS signal coming out of the distributor was a nightmare, then getting pinouts for the distributor itself was another adventure.
Buying as much of this as possible (rather than assembling myself) was definitely the best move I could've made, but I really wish the documentation were a bit more clear. The signal:noise ratio in Megasquirt documentation is pretty low.
I'm going to put the whole process together into one cohesive document for a 'minimum viable product' with MS and the l28et - it should help clear up a lot of questions that I couldn't get straight answers to. Just figuring out if I had a hall or optical CAS signal coming out of the distributor was a nightmare, then getting pinouts for the distributor itself was another adventure.
- drummingpariah
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Re: Happy Birthday to me (280z build)
I got a little side-tracked today, and worked on a slightly different project. I really hate having to maintain 'excess' features without good reason, so I've been working on a side project to clean this up quite a bit, while opening some new aftermarket upgrade options to myself. Let's discuss in phases.
As you may have already noticed, the l28et intake manifold and associated vacuum routing leaves a lot to be desired.
Manifold Design
Nissan experimented with casting in 'webbing' between the intake runners, to try to keep the exhaust heat (this is a non-crossflow engine, so remember that the turbo and exhaust are DIRECTLY under the intake manifold) from circulating into the head too much. That caused access issues, and even when cleaned up as much as possible, was a pretty ugly thing:
The intake manifold that came with the car (not the engine, which came from a 280zx-t) isn't exactly a work of art either, but can be cleaned up and simplified. I happened to have the original lying around, and decided to tear it down and prep it for replacement:
Fuel Delivery
The fuel rail is a convoluted tube of steel (you may recognize it as brake lines from normal cars), and the injectors are connected to this tube of steel via some rubber hoses. The injectors themselves are single-squirter designs, and flowed roughly 270cc/min @ ~42psi. As you might imagine, these hoses are in GREAT shape after 40+ years of neglect.
While I'm not looking to make astronomical amounts of power (200whp shouldn't be asking too much out of a turbo 2.8liter), I would like better reliability and parts availability should something go wrong. I was lucky enough to have a friend give me some Ford Cobra EV1 24# injectors (~252cc/min, slightly less flow than brand-new Nissan injectors), and because they're so standardized and prevalent, and a 'better' 4-hole design, I thought I'd try to standardize my equipment to be able to use them. Luckily, they use the same electrical connectors, so if they don't work for some reason, I can switch back easily. The main selling point for these injectors is the ease of upgrade/replacement (~$125 for ~35# injectors, and the 24# injectors should suit my needs for this season without going over 70% duty cycle), but also the fact that they're high impedance. High impedance is a lot less of a pain than low impedance (stock Nissan), and can be wired in to Megasquirt with no modifications. I like no-modification installations, especially in regards to anything electrical.
These injectors have 14mm orings on the fuel rail side and 14mm orings on the manifold side. I did some hunting, and found a Datsun-specific manufacturer who happens to make 14mm fuel rails for the l-series engines (Pallnet, for those who might be wondering). I contacted him, and received my fuel rail this morning. Excitedly, I mocked everything up to see how it fits, and was excited that I only found one issue with the fitment, on my cleaned-up stock intake manifold:
The injectors fit the fuel rail perfectly, the fuel rail fits the manifold beautifully, but the injectors don't fit the manifold bungs. They sit on top of the bung, in fact. That won't seal at all, and I've been told that spraying fuel all over the inside of an engine bay is a bad thing (who knew?!)
So coming up sometime this week (hopefully) I'll be able to drop the manifold off with my friend and have her machine the bungs a bit so the injectors can actually seat in the manifold, rather than on it. More updates to come when I have a bit more progress made, but it looks like I'm going to be adding vacuum lines and mounting this in the engine bay in pretty short order.
As you may have already noticed, the l28et intake manifold and associated vacuum routing leaves a lot to be desired.
Manifold Design
Nissan experimented with casting in 'webbing' between the intake runners, to try to keep the exhaust heat (this is a non-crossflow engine, so remember that the turbo and exhaust are DIRECTLY under the intake manifold) from circulating into the head too much. That caused access issues, and even when cleaned up as much as possible, was a pretty ugly thing:
The intake manifold that came with the car (not the engine, which came from a 280zx-t) isn't exactly a work of art either, but can be cleaned up and simplified. I happened to have the original lying around, and decided to tear it down and prep it for replacement:
Fuel Delivery
The fuel rail is a convoluted tube of steel (you may recognize it as brake lines from normal cars), and the injectors are connected to this tube of steel via some rubber hoses. The injectors themselves are single-squirter designs, and flowed roughly 270cc/min @ ~42psi. As you might imagine, these hoses are in GREAT shape after 40+ years of neglect.
While I'm not looking to make astronomical amounts of power (200whp shouldn't be asking too much out of a turbo 2.8liter), I would like better reliability and parts availability should something go wrong. I was lucky enough to have a friend give me some Ford Cobra EV1 24# injectors (~252cc/min, slightly less flow than brand-new Nissan injectors), and because they're so standardized and prevalent, and a 'better' 4-hole design, I thought I'd try to standardize my equipment to be able to use them. Luckily, they use the same electrical connectors, so if they don't work for some reason, I can switch back easily. The main selling point for these injectors is the ease of upgrade/replacement (~$125 for ~35# injectors, and the 24# injectors should suit my needs for this season without going over 70% duty cycle), but also the fact that they're high impedance. High impedance is a lot less of a pain than low impedance (stock Nissan), and can be wired in to Megasquirt with no modifications. I like no-modification installations, especially in regards to anything electrical.
These injectors have 14mm orings on the fuel rail side and 14mm orings on the manifold side. I did some hunting, and found a Datsun-specific manufacturer who happens to make 14mm fuel rails for the l-series engines (Pallnet, for those who might be wondering). I contacted him, and received my fuel rail this morning. Excitedly, I mocked everything up to see how it fits, and was excited that I only found one issue with the fitment, on my cleaned-up stock intake manifold:
The injectors fit the fuel rail perfectly, the fuel rail fits the manifold beautifully, but the injectors don't fit the manifold bungs. They sit on top of the bung, in fact. That won't seal at all, and I've been told that spraying fuel all over the inside of an engine bay is a bad thing (who knew?!)
So coming up sometime this week (hopefully) I'll be able to drop the manifold off with my friend and have her machine the bungs a bit so the injectors can actually seat in the manifold, rather than on it. More updates to come when I have a bit more progress made, but it looks like I'm going to be adding vacuum lines and mounting this in the engine bay in pretty short order.
- drummingpariah
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Re: Happy Birthday to me (280z build)
After the first three vac lines I tested on the stock l28et manifold all leaked, I decided to ignore it altogether and stop trying to mess around with the thing. Instead, I'm making a big push to get this intake manifold installed next weekend. I'll try to drop it off with my machinist friend tomorrow to drill out the injector bungs and weld up a couple vac openings that I won't need any more.
I'm also going to need a catch can for this, and I think I'll have to fabricate a new heat shield (non-crossflow turbo isn't a great idea, IMHO).
The more research I do on injector depth, the more I find that it just doesn't matter on bank fire. With sequential, it may matter, but going to 4-hole injectors on a 2-valve engine may negate that potential advantage if the fuel just pools on the walls. I won't really know until i do some testing.
For now, getting the injectors deep enough to properly seat the orings and get a good seal is my goal. That's going to be a lot more likely to get a reliable engine than expecting the crusty old OEM injectors to function as intended.
Because the intake manifold came with a 7th injector, I'm sort of considering figuring out a way to utilize that for water or alcohol injection as a detonation or overheating protection measure. That's quite a ways down the road (next season at least) but it may give me all the safety advantages of an intercooler without the classification hit (and additional power). I haven't done much research on it, though.
I'm also going to need a catch can for this, and I think I'll have to fabricate a new heat shield (non-crossflow turbo isn't a great idea, IMHO).
The more research I do on injector depth, the more I find that it just doesn't matter on bank fire. With sequential, it may matter, but going to 4-hole injectors on a 2-valve engine may negate that potential advantage if the fuel just pools on the walls. I won't really know until i do some testing.
For now, getting the injectors deep enough to properly seat the orings and get a good seal is my goal. That's going to be a lot more likely to get a reliable engine than expecting the crusty old OEM injectors to function as intended.
Because the intake manifold came with a 7th injector, I'm sort of considering figuring out a way to utilize that for water or alcohol injection as a detonation or overheating protection measure. That's quite a ways down the road (next season at least) but it may give me all the safety advantages of an intercooler without the classification hit (and additional power). I haven't done much research on it, though.
- drummingpariah
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Re: Happy Birthday to me (280z build)
While I'm waiting for a little machining, Sam prompted me to look at my classification a bit more closely. I'm pretty certain that I want to run 'real wheels' instead of the 400-treadwear options available in 14x7, and the stock suspension on the 280z leaves much to be desired. I don't have a source for a roll cage yet, so I don't have a price estimate, and therefore I haven't budgeted for it. I'd LOVE to get a cage in this season for several reasons, but I'm not sure I'll be able to afford it 'till next year. With that in mind, I'll suggest that 15x7 or 15x8 wheels with aftermarket springs (at the very least) with no roll cage are my goals for this season.
SP4 l28et w/o cage - Fewest changes
Keeping the current motor, I can either change to 15x7 wheels or the springs - not both. That's going to be a messy, difficult-to-enjoy car.
SP4 l28et w/ cage - All necessary changes, but at the cost of a cage
With the same engine and a cage, I can do enough to make the car fun. 15x7 wheels, <100treadwear tires, decent anti-roll bars, springs, and modified suspension (my TC rod mounting locations really need to be relocated). I think that configuration would actually be competitive, if this weren't my first season.
SP2 l28et w/o cage - All necessary changes, no cage
If I completely ignore racing in an appropriate class and am ok with being the slowest in my class, I can make the car fun to drive without caging it. 15x8 wheels, <100 treadwear, anti-roll bars, springs, modified suspension, and I could even add an intercooler!
... forget about running times even close to anyone else in class, though.
Engine Swap
If I want to spend extra time and energy downgrading the l28et engine to an n42, things start to get more fun. The l28et is capable of ridiculous amounts of power for my goals. As it sits and running around 7psi without changing the throttle body or making major modifications to ductwork, 300whp around 5k rpm with a broad, useable powerband is a very real possibility. Several 280zx-t's have done that without breaking a sweat, and most of those engines lasted through years of autocross and daily driving. I would only have to upgrade the fuel system and convert to a more accurate ignition system (like EDIS6).
On the other hand, the n42 can squeeze out closer to 200whp with a decent tune and a fresh OEM-spec valvetrain (significantly more with some head work). That may not sound like much, but the car isn't particularly heavy and I would be dropping the 30% displacement modifier of the turbo.
sP4 n42 w/o cage - All necessary changes, no cage necessary
I get 15x8 wheels, <100treadwear, anti-roll bars, springs, and modified suspension. It should be much more competitive than I would be. This install would re-use my current Megasquirt installation with a different tune. All the wiring stays the same, so the swap would be relatively straightforward.
SP5 n42 w/ cage - Competitive low-classed racecar
I'm can squeeze into S5 with a cage keeping my 15x7 wheels, springs, and TC rod mounting location as long as I keep the interior in tact (there isn't much interior on this car, which makes that a particularly large advantage - but interior panels are pricey).
SP4 l28et w/o cage - Fewest changes
Keeping the current motor, I can either change to 15x7 wheels or the springs - not both. That's going to be a messy, difficult-to-enjoy car.
SP4 l28et w/ cage - All necessary changes, but at the cost of a cage
With the same engine and a cage, I can do enough to make the car fun. 15x7 wheels, <100treadwear tires, decent anti-roll bars, springs, and modified suspension (my TC rod mounting locations really need to be relocated). I think that configuration would actually be competitive, if this weren't my first season.
SP2 l28et w/o cage - All necessary changes, no cage
If I completely ignore racing in an appropriate class and am ok with being the slowest in my class, I can make the car fun to drive without caging it. 15x8 wheels, <100 treadwear, anti-roll bars, springs, modified suspension, and I could even add an intercooler!
... forget about running times even close to anyone else in class, though.
Engine Swap
If I want to spend extra time and energy downgrading the l28et engine to an n42, things start to get more fun. The l28et is capable of ridiculous amounts of power for my goals. As it sits and running around 7psi without changing the throttle body or making major modifications to ductwork, 300whp around 5k rpm with a broad, useable powerband is a very real possibility. Several 280zx-t's have done that without breaking a sweat, and most of those engines lasted through years of autocross and daily driving. I would only have to upgrade the fuel system and convert to a more accurate ignition system (like EDIS6).
On the other hand, the n42 can squeeze out closer to 200whp with a decent tune and a fresh OEM-spec valvetrain (significantly more with some head work). That may not sound like much, but the car isn't particularly heavy and I would be dropping the 30% displacement modifier of the turbo.
sP4 n42 w/o cage - All necessary changes, no cage necessary
I get 15x8 wheels, <100treadwear, anti-roll bars, springs, and modified suspension. It should be much more competitive than I would be. This install would re-use my current Megasquirt installation with a different tune. All the wiring stays the same, so the swap would be relatively straightforward.
SP5 n42 w/ cage - Competitive low-classed racecar
I'm can squeeze into S5 with a cage keeping my 15x7 wheels, springs, and TC rod mounting location as long as I keep the interior in tact (there isn't much interior on this car, which makes that a particularly large advantage - but interior panels are pricey).
- drummingpariah
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Re: Happy Birthday to me (280z build)
I just accepted a deposit on my 240z, which frees up a bit of room in my budget for a roll cage. I'm looking for someone who can put together a nice tight roll cage that's as close to the body as possible (this car still needs to be streetable, and I really don't relish the thought of whacking my head against the cage), but have no idea what kind of budget I'll need or where to start looking. In the meantime, I took advantage of the nice weekend to make some more progress.
Most of it is wired up now, but I still have to start the car. I wanted to forego wiring in the stock injector resistor pack (the stock injectors require it, the EV1 injectors don't), because I'm so close to replacing the intake manifold completely (along with the low-impedance injectors with high-impedance injectors), so I put together a final wiring diagram for it. I tried 4 different software suites to put together a GOOD diagram, but they all failed miserably ... so you get a photo of a paper sketch instead. Hopefully it's mostly legible, I plan to put together a more final version soon, once I've verified that this all makes sense and I'm not missing something critical.
As for the injectors, I've been using an n42 intake manifold as a test mule, and found that the EV1 injectors have a much larger diameter than the stock injectors. I managed to hog out most of the bosses to ~14mm with my 9/16" bit (it's actually a stepper bit, which should work fine for this application), but the bit isn't nearly long enough to get around the throttle linkage towers.
I also don't happen to have a 3/8" tap (it's HUGE) for the GM IAT sensor, so I'm sending this manifold off to get some loving from someone else.
I also found that the factory Nissan CAS signal connector and wiring appears to be of MUCH higher quality than the DIYAutoTune wires, and ended up tossing weatherpack connectors on the far end of that instead of using the wires that came with the wiring kit.
Based on those results, I think I'm going to rewire my motorcycles with weatherpack connectors: They're a pretty solid way to solve the 'wiring connector' problem.
Most of it is wired up now, but I still have to start the car. I wanted to forego wiring in the stock injector resistor pack (the stock injectors require it, the EV1 injectors don't), because I'm so close to replacing the intake manifold completely (along with the low-impedance injectors with high-impedance injectors), so I put together a final wiring diagram for it. I tried 4 different software suites to put together a GOOD diagram, but they all failed miserably ... so you get a photo of a paper sketch instead. Hopefully it's mostly legible, I plan to put together a more final version soon, once I've verified that this all makes sense and I'm not missing something critical.
As for the injectors, I've been using an n42 intake manifold as a test mule, and found that the EV1 injectors have a much larger diameter than the stock injectors. I managed to hog out most of the bosses to ~14mm with my 9/16" bit (it's actually a stepper bit, which should work fine for this application), but the bit isn't nearly long enough to get around the throttle linkage towers.
I also don't happen to have a 3/8" tap (it's HUGE) for the GM IAT sensor, so I'm sending this manifold off to get some loving from someone else.
I also found that the factory Nissan CAS signal connector and wiring appears to be of MUCH higher quality than the DIYAutoTune wires, and ended up tossing weatherpack connectors on the far end of that instead of using the wires that came with the wiring kit.
Based on those results, I think I'm going to rewire my motorcycles with weatherpack connectors: They're a pretty solid way to solve the 'wiring connector' problem.
- drummingpariah
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Re: Happy Birthday to me (280z build)
Status update after the weekend!
The 240z sold, which makes me pretty happy. It means I can really focus on getting the 280z reliable and not have that nagging feeling on the side. The 280z is in a complicated place right now, which I'll get to momentarily. I'm also moving this month, which complicates EVERYTHING (but selling the 240z makes that a lot easier).
Moving Woes
Moving creates more complications than simply the move itself. For one, I won't have a dedicated garage in back of the apartment that I can work on everything in. Instead, I'll have a storage space that I have to be careful about creating too much noise in (no grinders, no welding, no air tools, etc). I can probably get away with oil changes and minor stuff like installing an exhaust, but I don't think I'd be able to fabricate an exhaust. Moving to a neighborhood that isn't filled with alcoholics and heroin addicts is worth that sacrifice, I think.
The move will be challenging because I don't have a truck of my own, but I still have two workbenches, a few tool chests, and some extra body parts that my little Yaris really isn't going to be able to haul. Hopefully I can con some friends into helping out over the next couple weeks. Packing and unpacking is going to eat up a lot of time that I'd really prefer to spend on the car itself, though.
To solve the no-fabrication problem, I'm signing up for a membership at a shared workspace in Nashua called MakeItLabs. They have a lift, all the fabrication tools I could want, and a bunch of people who seem like they're happy to collaborate on fun projects. For $75/mo, it's kind of a no brainer.
EV1 Progress
I'm willing to call the EV1 project a success, but with a few stipulations. I ordered another intake manifold (it was $35) to try a second prototype with, after seeing these results. It took a few passes with a few different tools using a 9/16" bit to finally get the injectors seated at an appropriate depth and angle, and I made up a few more mounting brackets to make sure the rail applied pressure to keep them seated under fuel/air pressure. I haven't tried mounting the manifold to the head with the injectors in place (yet) so I don't know if I'll have any interference issues with having them this deep in the manifold. On the next pass, I'll leave a bit more meat on the manifold, and leave the injectors seated a little farther away from the head itself.
One of the best things about makeitlabs is that I'll be able to use a real machine press for this, instead of borrowed tools that really aren't perfectly suited to the job.
Despite using hand tools, I came out all right in the end.
IAT sensor
Less successful. I still can't figure out why DIYAutoTune recommends the GM IAT for every vehicle. It's massive, and requires 3/4 NPT threads. That tap was $30, then I realized that it requires a 37/64" bit, which I couldn't find locally and ended up needing a 1/2" drive drill to fit the bit shaft anyway. 9/16" wasn't close enough, and 37/64" doesn't seem to be a common bit at all, so I'm forced to wait 'till mid-week to drill a hole big enough for this monstrous sensor, then I can FINALLY start the car up (hopefully).
I did a little research, and have been trying to find a more appropriately sized IAT to use in the future. It has to be an open element, and ideally would use a 'standard' pigtail connector and 'standard' threads (3/4 NPT isn't standard where I come from, 1/4 NPT would be much more acceptable for a sensor this size). The AX49 looks like it'd fit the bill, but I can't find any hard data on what those threads are:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/smp-ax49/applications
The 240z sold, which makes me pretty happy. It means I can really focus on getting the 280z reliable and not have that nagging feeling on the side. The 280z is in a complicated place right now, which I'll get to momentarily. I'm also moving this month, which complicates EVERYTHING (but selling the 240z makes that a lot easier).
Moving Woes
Moving creates more complications than simply the move itself. For one, I won't have a dedicated garage in back of the apartment that I can work on everything in. Instead, I'll have a storage space that I have to be careful about creating too much noise in (no grinders, no welding, no air tools, etc). I can probably get away with oil changes and minor stuff like installing an exhaust, but I don't think I'd be able to fabricate an exhaust. Moving to a neighborhood that isn't filled with alcoholics and heroin addicts is worth that sacrifice, I think.
The move will be challenging because I don't have a truck of my own, but I still have two workbenches, a few tool chests, and some extra body parts that my little Yaris really isn't going to be able to haul. Hopefully I can con some friends into helping out over the next couple weeks. Packing and unpacking is going to eat up a lot of time that I'd really prefer to spend on the car itself, though.
To solve the no-fabrication problem, I'm signing up for a membership at a shared workspace in Nashua called MakeItLabs. They have a lift, all the fabrication tools I could want, and a bunch of people who seem like they're happy to collaborate on fun projects. For $75/mo, it's kind of a no brainer.
EV1 Progress
I'm willing to call the EV1 project a success, but with a few stipulations. I ordered another intake manifold (it was $35) to try a second prototype with, after seeing these results. It took a few passes with a few different tools using a 9/16" bit to finally get the injectors seated at an appropriate depth and angle, and I made up a few more mounting brackets to make sure the rail applied pressure to keep them seated under fuel/air pressure. I haven't tried mounting the manifold to the head with the injectors in place (yet) so I don't know if I'll have any interference issues with having them this deep in the manifold. On the next pass, I'll leave a bit more meat on the manifold, and leave the injectors seated a little farther away from the head itself.
One of the best things about makeitlabs is that I'll be able to use a real machine press for this, instead of borrowed tools that really aren't perfectly suited to the job.
Despite using hand tools, I came out all right in the end.
IAT sensor
Less successful. I still can't figure out why DIYAutoTune recommends the GM IAT for every vehicle. It's massive, and requires 3/4 NPT threads. That tap was $30, then I realized that it requires a 37/64" bit, which I couldn't find locally and ended up needing a 1/2" drive drill to fit the bit shaft anyway. 9/16" wasn't close enough, and 37/64" doesn't seem to be a common bit at all, so I'm forced to wait 'till mid-week to drill a hole big enough for this monstrous sensor, then I can FINALLY start the car up (hopefully).
I did a little research, and have been trying to find a more appropriately sized IAT to use in the future. It has to be an open element, and ideally would use a 'standard' pigtail connector and 'standard' threads (3/4 NPT isn't standard where I come from, 1/4 NPT would be much more acceptable for a sensor this size). The AX49 looks like it'd fit the bill, but I can't find any hard data on what those threads are:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/smp-ax49/applications
- drummingpariah
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Re: Happy Birthday to me (280z build)
I am an idiot.
I gave both manifold gaskets that I had to the new owner of the 240z, but he didn't need either. I needed one though, and totally forgot that one was supposed to go with the l28et.
It took awhile, but I finally got the intake manifold off.
... then I saw the manifold gasket's condition (for some reason, I thought I might be able to salvage/reuse it - which you should never do even if you can) and decided it was time to pull the exhaust manifold off as well, so I could replace that gasket. The oil lines are a bit difficult to remove, and I don't want to make this more of a mess than I already have, so I'm just leaving it here for now.
The manifold gasket was just crap. All crap. Made of crap, with crap smeared on top of it.
Speaking of crap, I'm really really happy to have the stock manifold off this thing.
Once the new gasket comes in, I can slap this guy in there. I'm going to order new manifold fasteners while I'm at it, my old collection of fasteners appears to have disappeared.
It would be NICE to install my new water cooled saab t3, and to clean up the block, paint the exhaust, and lots of other 'while im in there' things, but I'm going to leave this as crusty as I think I can get away with ... but all those things push back the 'running date' and I won't allow that. Once it's running and driving, I have no problem pulling things back apart, but I have no tolerance for stuff that prevents me from getting to that initial running-driving condition. I need a starting point before I start making improvements.
I gave both manifold gaskets that I had to the new owner of the 240z, but he didn't need either. I needed one though, and totally forgot that one was supposed to go with the l28et.
It took awhile, but I finally got the intake manifold off.
... then I saw the manifold gasket's condition (for some reason, I thought I might be able to salvage/reuse it - which you should never do even if you can) and decided it was time to pull the exhaust manifold off as well, so I could replace that gasket. The oil lines are a bit difficult to remove, and I don't want to make this more of a mess than I already have, so I'm just leaving it here for now.
The manifold gasket was just crap. All crap. Made of crap, with crap smeared on top of it.
Speaking of crap, I'm really really happy to have the stock manifold off this thing.
Once the new gasket comes in, I can slap this guy in there. I'm going to order new manifold fasteners while I'm at it, my old collection of fasteners appears to have disappeared.
It would be NICE to install my new water cooled saab t3, and to clean up the block, paint the exhaust, and lots of other 'while im in there' things, but I'm going to leave this as crusty as I think I can get away with ... but all those things push back the 'running date' and I won't allow that. Once it's running and driving, I have no problem pulling things back apart, but I have no tolerance for stuff that prevents me from getting to that initial running-driving condition. I need a starting point before I start making improvements.
- drummingpariah
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Re: Happy Birthday to me (280z build)
XS650 just sold, which may free up some funds for the 280z.