First update for 2021.
So much was accomplished since November, but would have been completed back in November if I didn’t have one #$%^! hole that was dorked up.
Back in November, the new steering rack was attached to the subframe and the subframe was in place and ready for the four M14 bolts to attach to the car.
One hole wasn’t quite right… I could not easily tighten the bolt by hand and wanted to chase the threads.
I tried a chase, but it would not work as the threads were too messed up.
I ordered new TTY M14 x 1.50 pitch bolts for the subframe and new TTY bolts for the power steering rack along with a M14 x 1.50 tap and die.
With the subframe still in place, I used the tap on the threads (everything felt good).
But… when trying to torque the bolt, I got that terrible feeling when you know the threads checked out and headed to Florida for vacation.
Off came the subframe (power steering rack on jackstands). One step backwards.
This is the front right mounting point for the subframe. Per the Bentley manual, the front mounts, which is a captured nut, is not serviceable with a helicoil unlike the rear mounts. Bentley states to replace the entire assembly, though, I would think cutting a hole and replacing the nut would also be a good option.
I had a conversation with my hillclimb racing cohorts about Heli-Coils; are they a good option for a captured nut, are they strong enough, etc. The responses were very positive.
Then someone mentioned Time-Serts as another option. Hmmmm, internet research of Heli-Coils vs Time-Sert showed both were good options, but I really liked the design of the Time-Sert (a threaded barrel with a lip on top as a stop) for fixing the subframe threads.
Ordered M14 x 1.50 kit from Amazon.
The kit includes a 57/64” S&D drill bit, counterbore, tap for the Time-Sert barrel (unsure of the actual tap size), driver, and four inserts.
Thankfully, I purchased a 1/2" drill back in 2001, used it once to drill three holes in my open trailer, and haven’t used it since.
Drilled the hole for the insert slowly with lots of oil.
Normally, the next step is to use the counterbore to allow for a flush install of the insert as the top has a lip, but it wasn’t needed in my case as the hole in the unibody was adequate.
Tap for the insert.
Installing the insert using 30W oil (per the instructions)
The new threads.
Installed the subframe (new threads worked!), control arms, axles, etc.
This picture captures everything that I did to the car over the summer… obviously, in no rush as there were no events.
* New power steering rack with harder poli mount (there is only one as the second is all metal)
* Control arms with metal bushings
* New ball joints and outer tie rod ends
* New oil pan
* New brake calipers and pads
* New wheel bearings and hubs (right side didn’t need a new hub)
* New suspension
* Changed left front wheel sensor to a non-brake pad wear sensor version (had to depin at the ABS module)
Close up of the rear control arm bushing.
I noticed that I had to full seat the new struts. Was not able to do when installing; had to wait until I was able to put the full weight of the car on it.
Loosened the strut bolt. I also used a strut spreader on each side; unsure if it was necessary.
Good thing I purchased two of the Metal Nerd (MN3424) strut spreaders. I ordered two as I was worried about misplacing the small tool.
Properly seated and everything is tight again.
Torqued inner and outer axle bolts.
I noticed that the right wheel had a heck of a lot of negative camber.
Prior to the new suspension, I had set the right camber plate all the way negative to match the left side that was more in the middle. Something was off with right vs. left. Whatever it was, the changes I made this summer corrected it.
Top view of left and right wheel and camber plate to show the difference.
Car on the ground. I still need to determine ride height (pretty close to stock height), adjust the strut/shock damping, and align the front end.
I forgot that I had this little gem. Custom made “Rabbit Farmer” badge for the back of the Scirocco.
Then there is the 2009 Subaru WRX. It didn’t pass state inspection back in October due to a leaky exhaust system. It is the original… can’t expect it to last forever, especially with the salty winters in Vermont.
I have been trying to find the Invidia Q300 cat back exhaust (model number INVHS08SW4GT3) since October, but it was back ordered on every vendor’s website. I finally ordered it from RallySportDirect for $726 (with taxes) on Black Friday to get 10% off knowing that it was still on back order. The estimate at that time was early December, which changed to late December, then mid-January.
It arrived on January 18.
Based on reviews, the Q300 is not loud and doesn’t drone. I was looking for something a little better than stock and cheaper than an OEM Subaru exhaust. Oh… and stainless steel.
I would install the exhaust myself, except I know that I have to address a leaking shifter shaft seal on the back/top of the transmission. I plan to bring it to a shop for the transmission leak and exhaust install.
Then to Subaru for alignment and inspection.
For my information for the next time I am taking everything apart at a race should I need the torque specs and forgot the Bentley at home:
Powersteering rack to subframe: 15 ft/lb + 1/4 turn
Subframe (all four bolts) to body: 74 ft/lb + 1/4 turn
Ball joint bolts to control arm (3 bolts): 15 ft/lb + 1/4 turn
Outer tie rod to hub: 33 ft/lb
Control arm (front bolt): 52 ft/lb + 1/4 turn
Control arm (back bolt): 52 ft/lb + 1/4 turn
Dogbone to bottom of transmission (2 bolts): 37 ft/lb
Inner axle bolts: Control arm (front bolt): 59 ft/lb
Axle bolt to hub: 184 ft/lb + 1/4 turn, back off 1/2 turn, roll car to rotate wheel 180-degrees, 184 ft/lb + 1/4 turn
