I am trying to figure out if H10 is the same as 9145 for bulbs.
I'm trying to get brighter fog lights for my 2001 F250. There is some confusing and conflicting information on the web (go figure)
The number for the bulb seems to be 9145... some sites state this is the same as the H10.
I'm hoping that someone will be able to offer some insight.
Thanks
S
H10 = 9145?
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H10 = 9145?
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Re: H10 = 9145?
"Get these 99-04 Ford F250 LED fog lights today and give your 99-04 Ford F250 a new JDM look!"
Just what I'm looking for with my American truck... the JDM look. Might as well throw some clear taillights on there while I'm at it. Scheesh.
Just what I'm looking for with my American truck... the JDM look. Might as well throw some clear taillights on there while I'm at it. Scheesh.
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Re: H10 = 9145?
Meanwhile, back on the ranch....
http://www.powerstrokenation.com/forums ... hp?t=78830
It seems that the 9005 bulb (headlight bulb at 65w) is the same as the 9145 (fog light at 42w). I'll have to check that out tomorrow.
S
http://www.powerstrokenation.com/forums ... hp?t=78830
It seems that the 9005 bulb (headlight bulb at 65w) is the same as the 9145 (fog light at 42w). I'll have to check that out tomorrow.
S
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Re: H10 = 9145?
I read the thread on doing the 9005 and despite the anecdotal evidence the swap is without problems, here is what can go wrong...
1) Too much heat. "Fog" lights" provided by auto manufacturers are physically smaller than headlights and often not able to disperse the added heat of a 50% increase in wattage without damaging the plastic lenses reflectors or both. Probably not an issue if the lights are used infrequently, say in fog, but maybe a problem if used the way many people seem to - all the frickin' time.
2) insufficient wiring. Auto manufacturers carefully calculate how small a wire (small as in diameter - large gauge number) they can get by with everywhere. Saves weight in vehicles because wiring is getting to be a bigger and bigger part of every vehicles weight as complexity grows and saves money in the long run for the manufacturer (BIG motivator). Now increase the load current on the end of the wire and you also get a 50% increase in line losses (lower voltage). While the voltage loss is linear with current increase the power loss (wire heating is uncreased by the square of the difference). Will you have a meltdown? Probably not, but you will be giving away a good bit of the hoped for increase in light output from the larger bulbs. Solution? Install "Bosch" 12V relays close to the lamps, controlled by the power and ground provided by the factory but power wired (ground and relay switched 12V) with suitably larger wire from the battery thru a fuse and to chassis ground. This is also a good idea for stock or modified headlamps (brighter), and it will lengthen the life of your control switches immensely.
3) Shorter switch life. Turning on and off lights directly thru switches (still a common design practice) is pretty hard on the switches. Of course different manufacturers have different reliability stories with this but all will suffer a much shorter life with the increase in current of larger bulbs. The solution here is again - relays. Sure relays also wear out - they are just switches controlled electronically. But the standard "Bosch" 20A relay can be replaced for about $2. Ever checked the price of an OEM headlight switch or fog light switch, or ignition switch thru which most of them run? And dont think that just because you are fortunate enough to have an all electronic system where the switches already control some form of relay or electronic headlight/foglight control, you are home free. Nope. These will also be designed against the standard current draw and may not be engineered to handle the increase current for the long term. And if they are to fail I am betting the replacement parts will not be a mere $2 each.
1) Too much heat. "Fog" lights" provided by auto manufacturers are physically smaller than headlights and often not able to disperse the added heat of a 50% increase in wattage without damaging the plastic lenses reflectors or both. Probably not an issue if the lights are used infrequently, say in fog, but maybe a problem if used the way many people seem to - all the frickin' time.
2) insufficient wiring. Auto manufacturers carefully calculate how small a wire (small as in diameter - large gauge number) they can get by with everywhere. Saves weight in vehicles because wiring is getting to be a bigger and bigger part of every vehicles weight as complexity grows and saves money in the long run for the manufacturer (BIG motivator). Now increase the load current on the end of the wire and you also get a 50% increase in line losses (lower voltage). While the voltage loss is linear with current increase the power loss (wire heating is uncreased by the square of the difference). Will you have a meltdown? Probably not, but you will be giving away a good bit of the hoped for increase in light output from the larger bulbs. Solution? Install "Bosch" 12V relays close to the lamps, controlled by the power and ground provided by the factory but power wired (ground and relay switched 12V) with suitably larger wire from the battery thru a fuse and to chassis ground. This is also a good idea for stock or modified headlamps (brighter), and it will lengthen the life of your control switches immensely.
3) Shorter switch life. Turning on and off lights directly thru switches (still a common design practice) is pretty hard on the switches. Of course different manufacturers have different reliability stories with this but all will suffer a much shorter life with the increase in current of larger bulbs. The solution here is again - relays. Sure relays also wear out - they are just switches controlled electronically. But the standard "Bosch" 20A relay can be replaced for about $2. Ever checked the price of an OEM headlight switch or fog light switch, or ignition switch thru which most of them run? And dont think that just because you are fortunate enough to have an all electronic system where the switches already control some form of relay or electronic headlight/foglight control, you are home free. Nope. These will also be designed against the standard current draw and may not be engineered to handle the increase current for the long term. And if they are to fail I am betting the replacement parts will not be a mere $2 each.
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Re: H10 = 9145?
Thanks for the input Walter. I do plan to add a relay. Did the same on my old rabbit where I had H4 lights (they are in John reed's truck now) with 55 low/100 high.
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Re: H10 = 9145?
To quote. " all the frickin' time." We do have to keep in mind the oncoming grandmother that can't see too good. These 'fog lights' have turned into driving lights that work on low beam.
Just a thought.
John Marsha
Just a thought.
John Marsha
A man must learn to understand the motives of human beings, their illusions, and their sufferings.
Albert
Albert
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Re: H10 = 9145?
You can count me in that group, hence my comment - quoted above. Of course much of the hillclimb community qualifies as well since this becomes a problem as young as 40 for many folks so we are preaching to the choir.Number_5 wrote:To quote. " all the frickin' time." We do have to keep in mind the oncoming grandmother that can't see too good. These 'fog lights' have turned into driving lights that work on low beam.
Just a thought.
John Marsha
The reality of many, if not most, of the factory aux lights is they are not aimed low like a fog light should be but are broad coverage, like high beams and are not provided with any adjustability. Dont get me wrong, I dont oppose them - I often use them at night to help me detect things alongside the road that I need to be aware of - like deer. But I do extinguish mine when oncoming traffic appears, just as I do my high beams.
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Re: H10 = 9145?
I only use the fogs on the truck in bad weather (no on coming cars) or on dark back roads.
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