Roll cage and roll bar

User avatar
RacingFrog
Posts: 112
Joined: Thu Jan 05, 2012 2:00 am
AntiSpam: No
Location: Huntington, MA
Contact:

Re: Roll cage and roll bar

Post by RacingFrog »

Thanks for the links.

I also so on racingjunk: n.e. classic lite dwarf
Ad #2420888 Posted:2011-12-27 22:05:55

pro chassis gsxr 600. car stripped and totaly re built for 2011 season. 8 bolt toyota,cone axles new bearings in rear. peter d monoball front end. new steletto rack, all heims and radius rods new. car won 7 races and second in points. totaly race ready call for more info!

What do you think of it?
--
FrogRacing: Because Frogs can climb too!
http://frogracing.us
http://www.facebook.com/frogracing
User avatar
sdwarf36
Posts: 822
Joined: Thu Dec 30, 2004 6:06 pm

Re: Roll cage and roll bar

Post by sdwarf36 »

Well--a 600 is a tiny motor-made to haul a 400 lb bike with a 150 lb rider. Not really enough for what we do.
you would be far better off finding a car with a 10 bolt rear rather than an 8. You can find a limited slip for a 10 bolt--not an 8. You CAN run a locked rear--i did it for years-but I got a bunch quicker when i went to an LSD.
Find someone with a classic dwarf (they race them at Riverside in Groveton Nh) and see if you fit in it. If you have no left arm, you may fit just fine. "Mod lites" have much more room.
http://www.dwarfcarracing.com -plenty of cars there.
Any motor made after 2002 would be what you want. Suzuki gsxr1000's are the most common. 2002-2005 sell for $1200-$1500. Later years are more--but more powerful.
Word of advice-if you do get one, go autcross it a couple of times before coming to a hill. These cars react VERY quick. I probably turn my wheel less than what you have for slop in the wheel of your Vette. Its far better to try to correct a too big input on the wheel in a parking lot than surrounded by trees. EVERY every EVERY one that trys driving one of these puts too big steering inputs at 1st-and usually spins on the overcorrection. Think go kart-or maybe a road race bugeye Sprite.
One of these is just a starting point-they were made + refined to race ovals-things like shifting wern't ever considered. Most have a hand clutch. (ok if you're used to it-i onlyused the clutch to launch.) BUT--the easiest way to kill a motor dead is to spin out + let it turn backwards. It really busts things up. Now picture getting loose--correcting-correcting-trying to save it--and pull in the clutch at the same time. Either stall it by locking the brakes-or gassing it + blowing donuts. Note: I got a foot clutch-easier to remember.
Translating road racing to hillclimbing:
Proper tire selection== nothing hooks up on moss or wet leaves.
Staying on the racing line==anything paved is considered good.
Post Reply