Hello all, just thought I would post my winter project....
My build started with a need to store my racecar outside my garage. I had also always wanted an enclosed trailer and one with living quarters to boot. As luck had it I also was looking for a fun winter project. After looking for 6 months or so I found a good deal on a 32’ HortonVan Gooseneck. I have never owned a gooseneck before but figured it would be the best for my needs. The year before I picked up a 2011 F350 gasser with the factor gooseneck package.
The build started in Oct and has gone pretty well due to the easy winter we have had in the northeast. Here are a few pictures
The HortonVan has a pretty good setup to start with, camper door (with screen) and 5 windows.
The floor was plywood with linoleum then diamond plate. I noticed some soft spots in the rear and this is what I found when I pulled up the floor.
Since I had no time limit on this build I decided to pull the entire floor paint and install a new sealed floor.
Yes that is my trooper of a wife with POR-15 ☺
The frame was very clean for a northeast trailer (it was built in 2000) and just needed a little scuff and a few coats of POR-15. I am very glad I decided to pull the floor!!
This trailer is very over built, in most cases the floor angle is 8-10” on center. GVW is 14000 with a dry weight of 7K.
New ¾” plywood was sealed on both sides with Sherwood Williams Rec Stain Epoxy and sealed to the frame with 3M caulk. All edges were seam sealed as well.
On the front couple of sheets of plywood I glued and metal taped double reflective insulation on the bottom of the floor. Hoping to add a few R’s to the floor.
I cut out and welded the braces needed for the fridge, hot water heater and outdoor shower vents.
The roof edges are curved and what seemed like a week point for New England snow. A buddy of mine bent up some 18awg steel shaped like a U which stretched from side to side and connected the side walls with the roof subframe (sorry no pictures of that) I used 3 of them about 8’ apart. They also work great to run wire in!
1” insulation board was cut and fitted in between the wall studs. In the living quarters up front I used an additional 1” on top of the other. In the rear I used the factory insulation in the roof with ½” reflective foam board covering that.
In the living quarters I used 1” and covered with ¼ plywood.
It took me quite a while to come up with the final design, well it kind of changed as I went along… A buddy had given me some floor cabinets and wall cabinets so I was trying to work around that.
There will be tire racks on both sides in the rear.
Back in the 90’s I built a 85 Chevy 12’ box truck into a Rally/living quarters service truck. It ended up weighing in at 11k!! We had to put a built 383 in it to tow in the hills of New England. Knowing my ability to over build stuff I decided to try and keep the weight down on this build. I used ¾”x 1 ½” poplar studs and ½” plywood.
The living quarters will have 2 door fridge, hot water heater and furnace. I am going to use an outside shower and have a sink. No bathroom (other than a portable one) as most place we go will have one. There will also be a dinette set.
Everything is inside, the gray water tank is under the sink and the fresh water tank is up against the front wall. There is a 2000 watt inverter/charger under the second step going up to the bedroom.
I also added ½” insulation and sub floor to the living quarters. Hoping to add a little more R’s and maybe keep any liquid from the rear making it’s way into the living quarters. I will most likely put a spill kit in there as well after really wet or muddy events. As of now I am not going to separate the two spaces. (this may change)
Starting to hang cabinets. Because of availability and cost and yes talent we are using three different type of cabinets. We tried our best to match the stain but well it is just a trailer ☺.
I welding up a front cage for the two 6 volt batteries and propane tank. There will be diamond plate covering it as well. There will be another cage on the other side to hold my Honda 2000 genny.
The bedroom is coming together. The ‘entertainment system” hangs from the roof and pivots for either the living room or bedroom. The Jenson stereo is attached as well.
The fuse box is under a hinged portion of the counter. Both 110 and 12 volt panels are located here. The inverter/charger is just below it.
All the lighting in the trailer will be 12-volt flexible led lights. Under cabinet as well as overhead lighting are with 24 watt lights and the rear car area will be 74 watt led’s. I must say, they are cheap and work really well!!
The bedroom floor is covered with 2” insulation because of the steel floor.
I will have a Max Air Deluxe fan in the living quarters and my roof ac in the rear.
An electronic thermostat will control the furnace. I hope to add my roof ac to that as well.
Not too much plumbing, but expensive!!
Fridge is in and it fits!!! I have wired an outlet in the spot above the fridge just incase we decide to add a microwave later.
I also ran the gray water tank vent up behind the fridge to limit the number of holes cut in the roof.
I added a temp shelf over the hood of the car to put my crap on and also to see how it felt to move around with it there. I might make a removable sleeping area in that spot. I would also wall it off completely from the rear….
I already wired up an electronic thermostat to my furnace and wanted to convert my manual roof AC to work with the thermostat as well.
This was the manual switch setup
This is after I removed all the manual switches and replaced them with 12 volt relays.
I also installed the cabinet doors and glued in the sink… getting there!
My biggest fear will be trying to back it into tent site 35 at Ascutney ☺
Adding living quarters to 32' Gooseneck
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Adding living quarters to 32' Gooseneck
Last edited by mathersports on Wed Apr 25, 2012 8:17 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Adding living quarters to 32' Gooseneck
I can't see all the pictures for some reason, but what I can see I really like. I'm quite jealous.
As to backing into an Ascutney camp site. I don't think a beefy wrap around rear bumper would be a horrible idea, seeing what a tree at ascutney did to my brother in laws camper.
As to backing into an Ascutney camp site. I don't think a beefy wrap around rear bumper would be a horrible idea, seeing what a tree at ascutney did to my brother in laws camper.
Sachilles
02 Subaru impreza (Donut) #66
02 Subaru impreza (Donut) #66
- Rabbit Farmer
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Re: Adding living quarters to 32' Gooseneck
Seth... I was getting half images for a lot of these... clicking reload fixed it for me.
Great work on the trailer. We know where the party is when it starts to rain.
Steve
Great work on the trailer. We know where the party is when it starts to rain.
Steve
Go Fast VW & Audi parts at FastAddiction.com
- walterclark
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Re: Adding living quarters to 32' Gooseneck
That looks like it is going to be VERY nice. I always thought John Marsha's trailer was great and that is similar to what you are doing.
I picked up a couple reels of 12V LED lighting strip this winter. I am using them along the bottom of the car and truck doors to throw some light on the ground when a door is opened at night. Cool stuff.
I picked up a couple reels of 12V LED lighting strip this winter. I am using them along the bottom of the car and truck doors to throw some light on the ground when a door is opened at night. Cool stuff.
The older I get the better I was.
- walterclark
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Re: Adding living quarters to 32' Gooseneck
One thing about LED lighting...
The LED strip I bought (300 LEDs) is designed to operate at 12V, and the manufacturer sells 115VAC:12VDC power sources for the strips when used in the home. Since I planned to use them in my car and truck, powered from the vehicle "12V" system I did a little testing and spec checking. The individual LEDs used in the strips I bought are designed to operate at a sustained maximum of 20ma forward current. The strip manufacturer states that the complete strips are intended to draw between 1800ma-2000ma which confirms the individual LED spec (100 parallel groups of 3 series LEDS per complete strip). At 12V, each LED in the strip draws 18ma. At 13V it draws 20ma, or its rated limit. At 13.8V (a common output from alternators) the LEDS each draw 22ma. There are no published detailed reliability (or life) studies for this class of LED, but studies for other LEDs and semiconductors that have been done suggest current beyond the devices rated max exponentially reduces device life. The max current is usually based on device heat dissipation capability and the knee shaped reduction in life curve is the result of heat buildup beyond the point where the materials in the semiconductor substrates are stable.
As a side note, I have read a lot of anecdotal evidence that many of the "aftermarket" LED light bulbs sold to directly replace incandescent lamps tend to fail at a high rate, especially considering the expectation that they are supposed to last "forever". There are a lot of things that could cause this including poor heat management and lack of mositure proofing the curcuit boards, but I would not be surprised to find the chief cause is that the LED configuration in each bulb has them wired to operate from 12V, where they may often see 14-16V in a car.
Anyway, I am not worried about the life of the strips in my car and truck as the LEDs will almost always be on only when the engine is off and the battery is below 13V. And the fact that the strips will get very few hours of use over the remaining life of these vehicles (as opposed to things like tail lights).
I dont know how you are powering the LED strips lighting in your trailer, but if powered directly off a 12V battery system, then you should be aware you may be harming the LEDs by operating them for long periods while those batteries are being charged. If you are running them from an AC-to-DC source intended for them, off an inverter or AC generator then you should be fine. It is also possible to design them to operate safely from a 12-14V DC supply range, so I think checking the specs of the ones you chose, so you know, is a good idea.
The LED strip I bought (300 LEDs) is designed to operate at 12V, and the manufacturer sells 115VAC:12VDC power sources for the strips when used in the home. Since I planned to use them in my car and truck, powered from the vehicle "12V" system I did a little testing and spec checking. The individual LEDs used in the strips I bought are designed to operate at a sustained maximum of 20ma forward current. The strip manufacturer states that the complete strips are intended to draw between 1800ma-2000ma which confirms the individual LED spec (100 parallel groups of 3 series LEDS per complete strip). At 12V, each LED in the strip draws 18ma. At 13V it draws 20ma, or its rated limit. At 13.8V (a common output from alternators) the LEDS each draw 22ma. There are no published detailed reliability (or life) studies for this class of LED, but studies for other LEDs and semiconductors that have been done suggest current beyond the devices rated max exponentially reduces device life. The max current is usually based on device heat dissipation capability and the knee shaped reduction in life curve is the result of heat buildup beyond the point where the materials in the semiconductor substrates are stable.
As a side note, I have read a lot of anecdotal evidence that many of the "aftermarket" LED light bulbs sold to directly replace incandescent lamps tend to fail at a high rate, especially considering the expectation that they are supposed to last "forever". There are a lot of things that could cause this including poor heat management and lack of mositure proofing the curcuit boards, but I would not be surprised to find the chief cause is that the LED configuration in each bulb has them wired to operate from 12V, where they may often see 14-16V in a car.
Anyway, I am not worried about the life of the strips in my car and truck as the LEDs will almost always be on only when the engine is off and the battery is below 13V. And the fact that the strips will get very few hours of use over the remaining life of these vehicles (as opposed to things like tail lights).
I dont know how you are powering the LED strips lighting in your trailer, but if powered directly off a 12V battery system, then you should be aware you may be harming the LEDs by operating them for long periods while those batteries are being charged. If you are running them from an AC-to-DC source intended for them, off an inverter or AC generator then you should be fine. It is also possible to design them to operate safely from a 12-14V DC supply range, so I think checking the specs of the ones you chose, so you know, is a good idea.
The older I get the better I was.
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Re: Adding living quarters to 32' Gooseneck
Thanks guys, it has been a fun project!!
Thanks for the LED info! The good news is they are really cheap and pretty easy to replace if they do burn out. I am running them on 12 volts.
Walter, will we be able to "camp" at the service at the Tarmac Rally in August?
Thanks for the LED info! The good news is they are really cheap and pretty easy to replace if they do burn out. I am running them on 12 volts.
Walter, will we be able to "camp" at the service at the Tarmac Rally in August?
- walterclark
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Re: Adding living quarters to 32' Gooseneck
I would suspect staying there in your self-contained trailer would not be a problem but I am not certain.
The August tarmac event will be held in Walton, NY and I expect the service area will be at the Delaware County Fairgrounds, in Walton. Detailed planning hasnt really started and with the organizer getting really busy in prep for the April event it probably isnt a good time right now for me to ask. I dont have info on staying overnight in the service area but suspect it is not officially sanctioned nor will it be specifically banned... At least it has never been to my knowledge. I expect there will not be facilities to support campers like showers, with open fires and camping tents probably not permitted, but if you are there in your vehicle trailer, well who is to say otherwise. In other words it is likely to be somewhat like Okemo.
The August tarmac event will be held in Walton, NY and I expect the service area will be at the Delaware County Fairgrounds, in Walton. Detailed planning hasnt really started and with the organizer getting really busy in prep for the April event it probably isnt a good time right now for me to ask. I dont have info on staying overnight in the service area but suspect it is not officially sanctioned nor will it be specifically banned... At least it has never been to my knowledge. I expect there will not be facilities to support campers like showers, with open fires and camping tents probably not permitted, but if you are there in your vehicle trailer, well who is to say otherwise. In other words it is likely to be somewhat like Okemo.
The older I get the better I was.
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Re: Adding living quarters to 32' Gooseneck
Update on progress,
Batteries and propane in and wired
I needed to remove the panel under the gooseneck to run wires and decided to insulate it with 1" foam board while it was apart.
I welded up the Genny cage and finished the exhaust port through the side of the trailer. I then added an extension to the genny, this empties into a larger pipe hooked onto the side of the trailer.
I also welded up a cage around the waste dump plumbing.
Still working on the awning mount, but looks like I can just bolt it to the gutter. I will also be screwing the rail to this as well inverted.
Hoping to get it painted this weekend...
Batteries and propane in and wired
I needed to remove the panel under the gooseneck to run wires and decided to insulate it with 1" foam board while it was apart.
I welded up the Genny cage and finished the exhaust port through the side of the trailer. I then added an extension to the genny, this empties into a larger pipe hooked onto the side of the trailer.
I also welded up a cage around the waste dump plumbing.
Still working on the awning mount, but looks like I can just bolt it to the gutter. I will also be screwing the rail to this as well inverted.
Hoping to get it painted this weekend...
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Re: Adding living quarters to 32' Gooseneck
I took a few days off from work to get a bunch of stuff done on the trailer. We are painting it this weekend.
I removed the fenders and wheels and POR-15ed the fender wells.
The next day I brought it over to a buddies shop to paint. Since it is so big it had to be painted outside in the driveway. With cold temps and wind in the forecast it was going to be a tough spray!!
After some prep work and tapping.
Two coats of the base coat, we went with the Ford Blue Pearl (same as the tow rig)
You can really see how the clear brings out the shine on this process. We used Spies Hecker Paint. My buddy Mike did a great job painting!!
Strapped for time the job was prepped and painted in one day. I took it home that night still very tacky!!
Here it is back home the next day curing
I installed the awning and the newly polished fenders, and it looks like a million bucks!!! I got the awning from a buddy. It was just luck the colors matched up so well :.)
Now the truck looks like it needs a paint job to match ☺!!
It is now really coming together!
I removed the fenders and wheels and POR-15ed the fender wells.
The next day I brought it over to a buddies shop to paint. Since it is so big it had to be painted outside in the driveway. With cold temps and wind in the forecast it was going to be a tough spray!!
After some prep work and tapping.
Two coats of the base coat, we went with the Ford Blue Pearl (same as the tow rig)
You can really see how the clear brings out the shine on this process. We used Spies Hecker Paint. My buddy Mike did a great job painting!!
Strapped for time the job was prepped and painted in one day. I took it home that night still very tacky!!
Here it is back home the next day curing
I installed the awning and the newly polished fenders, and it looks like a million bucks!!! I got the awning from a buddy. It was just luck the colors matched up so well :.)
Now the truck looks like it needs a paint job to match ☺!!
It is now really coming together!
Re: Adding living quarters to 32' Gooseneck
beautiful work on this whole project
Jason Orzell
VW Rabbit turbo diesel, the green soot shooter
VW Rabbit turbo diesel, the green soot shooter