Ha ha, you ain't kidding!walterclark wrote:Looks good! I have painted 2 cars outdoors. Hate it. Seems like everything conspires during the painting to mess things up. Sun, clouds, breeze, bugs, trees, weeds. At least I could see what I was doing.
1973 VW Super-Beetle(1303) Hill-Climb Build
- Super1303
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Re: My 1973 1303 I bought for a dollar
Hello, my name is Evan and I'm a Volksaholic.
1973 Super Beetle, #666
1973 Super Beetle, #666
- Super1303
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Re: My 1973 1303 I bought for a dollar
dsldubn wrote:looks great! Can't wait to see this thing in person...any idea of which hill you might make it to this summer?
I'm shooting for Burke-2, I think I'll be able to have it ready. I know I'll have a roller by then but the engine and tranny is last on the list and what's left in the budget.
Ether way I'll bring it to Burke-2 to get it looked over at tech.
Hello, my name is Evan and I'm a Volksaholic.
1973 Super Beetle, #666
1973 Super Beetle, #666
- Super1303
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Re: My 1973 1303 I bought for a dollar
Anybody know who still can line-bore a VW case or have the tool for sale? Most shops have the same old sold it line and I'd love to buy it!
Figure I'd put it out there since I've only got 2 or 12 VW engines around here that need it, lol.
Figure I'd put it out there since I've only got 2 or 12 VW engines around here that need it, lol.
Hello, my name is Evan and I'm a Volksaholic.
1973 Super Beetle, #666
1973 Super Beetle, #666
- drummingpariah
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Re: My 1973 1303 I bought for a dollar
I know a shop in Berwick, ME that line-bore'd my 1600 DP that I had on my old baja. I'll see if I can dig up their number, unless that's too far away for you?
You may also want to try contacting John in Winchendon, MA at (978) 602-6037 - I don't know if he can line-bore it for you, but I know he's built a few buggies so I would assume so. He's a great guy to work with with reasonable rates on high quality work, and decent turnaround times.
You may also want to try contacting John in Winchendon, MA at (978) 602-6037 - I don't know if he can line-bore it for you, but I know he's built a few buggies so I would assume so. He's a great guy to work with with reasonable rates on high quality work, and decent turnaround times.
- Super1303
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Re: My 1973 1303 I bought for a dollar
Throwing up some pictures of the progress.
Feels real nice to be bolting stuff in for good.




Feels real nice to be bolting stuff in for good.




Last edited by Super1303 on Sat Jan 02, 2016 10:44 am, edited 6 times in total.
Hello, my name is Evan and I'm a Volksaholic.
1973 Super Beetle, #666
1973 Super Beetle, #666
Re: My 1973 1303 I bought for a dollar
Not to make you go change anything -but the kill switch on the side isnt really a good idea. What if you scrape down a tree on that side? Or if you are deep in prickers on the drivers side? On the cowl in front of you is a much better place.
Translating road racing to hillclimbing:
Proper tire selection== nothing hooks up on moss or wet leaves.
Staying on the racing line==anything paved is considered good.
Proper tire selection== nothing hooks up on moss or wet leaves.
Staying on the racing line==anything paved is considered good.
- Super1303
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Re: My 1973 1303 I bought for a dollar
Your right, I just couldn't find a place on the cowl flat enough to mount the damn thing.sdwarf36 wrote:Not to make you go change anything -but the kill switch on the side isnt really a good idea. What if you scrape down a tree on that side? Or if you are deep in prickers on the drivers side? On the cowl in front of you is a much better place.
Dose this not pass tech?
Hello, my name is Evan and I'm a Volksaholic.
1973 Super Beetle, #666
1973 Super Beetle, #666
- Super1303
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Re: My 1973 1303 I bought for a dollar
I have a question about fuel line placement.
Normally the fuel line runs in the middle of tunnel it's also super small.
The factory installs this line and the other control tubes before closing up the bottom so replacing this line, correctly, is kind of impossible with out tearing the frame apart.
So, I thought about placing the line under the car but it's flat and would be in harms way I just couldn't find a good place for it.
Is it OK to run the fuel line through the cockpit?
I'm using 3/8" aluminum line and would like to run it down the, P/S, side of the tunnel with a bulkhead fitting to through the front and rear fire wall to 3/8" hose barb on the out side.
Before I go and cut holes I'd like to make sure this is OK.
Thanks.
The line would run down along the tunnel, on this side, near the corner of were the floor board meets the tunnel up about about a 1/2".

Normally the fuel line runs in the middle of tunnel it's also super small.
The factory installs this line and the other control tubes before closing up the bottom so replacing this line, correctly, is kind of impossible with out tearing the frame apart.
So, I thought about placing the line under the car but it's flat and would be in harms way I just couldn't find a good place for it.
Is it OK to run the fuel line through the cockpit?
I'm using 3/8" aluminum line and would like to run it down the, P/S, side of the tunnel with a bulkhead fitting to through the front and rear fire wall to 3/8" hose barb on the out side.
Before I go and cut holes I'd like to make sure this is OK.
Thanks.
The line would run down along the tunnel, on this side, near the corner of were the floor board meets the tunnel up about about a 1/2".

Last edited by Super1303 on Fri Jan 01, 2016 7:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Hello, my name is Evan and I'm a Volksaholic.
1973 Super Beetle, #666
1973 Super Beetle, #666
- walterclark
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Re: My 1973 1303 I bought for a dollar
Rigid metal fuel line is fine inside the cockpit. Although we dont specify this, many racing bodies do: Try to make it one piece with any compression fittings outside the cockpit bulkheads if possible. That way a connector failure of any sort will not result in fuel inside the cockpit. Secure the line in place and grommet any place it passes thru a structure so it cannot chafe or fatigue.
The older I get the better I was.
- walterclark
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Re: My 1973 1303 I bought for a dollar
We dont specify where it can and cannot be located. Its best if it is likely to be unharmed and readily assessable in an emergency. The sides of the car in general are not the best location, nor is the roof. The cowl area on most cars is perhaps the best exterior location. I would pass it with those caveats.Super1303 wrote:Dose this not pass tech?
The older I get the better I was.