1973 VW Super-Beetle(1303) Hill-Climb Build

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walterclark
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Re: My 1974 1303 I bought for a dollar

Post by walterclark »

Super1303 wrote:Got the Doorbar X's tacked into place, same thing as the backstay, I'll get back to it later too dress the tubes for welding an all that.
I fell like they came out pretty good, notches fit tight, tubes line up, I can still get in an out of the car. Alright! :)
Since I bolted the body down, kind of permanent at this point, I'm going to add to the foot plates to tie the cage to the body better.
Dose anyone think it's necessary to tie the cage to the front strut towers at this time? Or should I wait to get some feed back at the hill?
The other thing, also thinking about waiting for, is the gussets. Drawing 253-31, FIA Article 253 – 2013. Is there a rule of thumb, recommended length?
I've got 1"X.120 tube to do it with. OK, Any feedback is appreciated. Thanks, Evan.
1" is OK but I would choose the same as your primary tubing for gusseting, if I had the choice. As for distance/length. They say the distance between end of the reinforcement (at the primary tube attachment point) and the joint being reinforced should be 2-4 times the primary tube diameter.

Generally, taco style gussets are bent with the same OD as the tubing it is reinforcing. FIA requires a minimum of 1mm thickness. In my opinion that is too thin. I recommend using the same thickness as the tubing it is reinforcing.

You want to reinforce the X in the side bars to be sure none of the bars that teminate at that X can tear out in a side impact and become a really really large punch into your body. On mine, I welded in vertical and horizontal tubes to create a "square" around the X then welded .095" sheet onto that "square". Sort of like 4 taco gussets...
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Super1303
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Re: My 1973 1303 I bought for a dollar

Post by Super1303 »

Here's a couple of pictures of the steering ratio box I installed. I love fast steering, I wan't this thing to drive like a go-cart.
It might be too much if it is I can go back to stk., I built it for that or I might not wan't it for certain hills or whatever. Time will tell. Good thing Beetle front ends are light!
I got my inspiration to do this from watching and researching Irish Rally drivers in the, Awesome, Ford MK-II Escorts, 2-3/4~2-1/2 is what is preferred to most drivers.
I also added more steering angle, with that lock to lock is 2-1/2 turns with the added box.
It tucks nicely under the stk gas tank depression, but that might change I'm eyeing a 3 gallon fuel cell to mount in the wheel well lower in the chassis.

1.5:1 steering ratio box.
Image

Image

Gas tank (showing depression where the steering ratio box fit into.)
Image
Last edited by Super1303 on Fri Jan 01, 2016 1:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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1973 Super Beetle, #666
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walterclark
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Re: My 1973 1303 I bought for a dollar

Post by walterclark »

I use a similar Howe quickener with my manual steering A2. Its heavy when stopped but I have never wished for slower steering either on stage rally or hillclimb. POwer assist would have been good on rough gravel but I never notice the effort or extra feedback at hillclimbs.
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Re: My 1973 1303 I bought for a dollar

Post by dsldubn »

I like the quickener idea. I have a rabbit column, from Justin C, that he built with a 2:1 quickener in it. I was going to put it in my gar this winter, however I'm a little worried that 2:1 with manual steering will be too quick, or too hard to turn. Any of you guys ever try a 2:1 with a manual rack?
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Super1303
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Re: My 1973 1303 I bought for a dollar

Post by Super1303 »

walterclark wrote:I use a similar Howe quickener with my manual steering A2. Its heavy when stopped but I have never wished for slower steering either on stage rally or hillclimb. POwer assist would have been good on rough gravel but I never notice the effort or extra feedback at hillclimbs.
Sweet. Thanks for the input, I thought it would be nice not to have to over hand so much.
I'll be boxing in the X too, I think I'll follow your method, I don't like the idea of potential hole punches.
It's funny, the more tubing I put in the bigger the motor I want build, notice; want, to balance it out! ;)
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walterclark
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Re: My 1973 1303 I bought for a dollar

Post by walterclark »

Mine is a 1.5:1 with an A2 manual rack and its not too much. Not sure how a 2:1 in an A1 would feel other than heavier at very low speeds and about a quarter quicker everywhere than mine. Justin probably used it (I seem to remember his saying he had one on the rabbit) and should be able to provide some input.
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Re: My 1973 1303 I bought for a dollar

Post by Super1303 »

dsldubn wrote:I like the quickener idea. I have a rabbit column, from Justin C, that he built with a 2:1 quickener in it. I was going to put it in my gar this winter, however I'm a little worried that 2:1 with manual steering will be too quick, or too hard to turn. Any of you guys ever try a 2:1 with a manual rack?
Ha Ha, that's why I made my mod reversible. Sometimes you don't know till you try.
It seem high but this the first time I'm doing this mod. How did the guy you got it from dig it?
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minirally
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Re: My 1973 1303 I bought for a dollar

Post by minirally »

i have a 2:1 and very like it
Oversteer is when the passenger is scared, Understeer is when the driver is scared
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sdwarf36
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Re: My 1973 1303 I bought for a dollar

Post by sdwarf36 »

I have a spare quickener up for grab-I'll check to see if its 1 3/4 or 2 to 1.
Translating road racing to hillclimbing:
Proper tire selection== nothing hooks up on moss or wet leaves.
Staying on the racing line==anything paved is considered good.
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Re: My 1973 1303 I bought for a dollar

Post by Challenger392 »

Sherm If no one else wants your quickener, I may be interested in giving it a try. My turn in could use help
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