Rabbit Farmer's various VW Projects

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Re: Rabbit Farmer's various VW Projects

Post by Rabbit Farmer »

Dec 2018 through Feb 2019

Progress on the Scirocco.

Sometimes you have to go backwards to go forward.

Short version is that I labeled and removed the entire wiring harness and removed the cage.

Long version with some pictures of some of the cool stuff along the way and did some exciting reading of the FIA 253J specs for cages. Exciting, I know!

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When looking through my photos trying to find images of when Bill first showed up with his car, I came across a few neat photos to share. Regarding photos of Bill’s car… I think they are real photos and before I had anything digital to take a picture. One day I will scan the old stuff in to share. Until then… sit!

One of the other Sciroccos at the hill was Dan’s MK2 (Bill’s son). This was a lot wilder than Bill’s MK1 as it was a V6 N/A AWD car (used to be 5 banger Audi turbo).

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Next… and unrelated, just happens to be the same event where I found the MK2, is Chris Havas’ MK4 rally Golf. He built the cage in my Golf. There… I tied it (loosely) to the verbosity induced story.

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And… same event. My old MK1 Rabbit 1.9 liter 12:1. First car I raced with a cage… yet, Chris did that cage also.

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…And now back to your regularly scheduled program…

There were some things that I have always been curious about this car. I looked over the car over the years when Bill owned it, but never really got to examine and try to understand what he did.

On the front of the car were two… well, nipples… where the outer headlights would normally mount. Bill actually had tassels on them.

One went through a flat grate, through what looks like a standard clothes dryer tube, to the custom interior fan system (more to come below).

The other was the air filter for the engine.

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Unscrew the nipple to remove the cover to access the end of the cone filter

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A very large cone filter.

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Labeled and removed the entire wiring harness. Generally, it seemed the orange wrapped wires were to connect the stock lights, fans, alternator, etc. in the car while the non-orange wires were for the Link Plus Engine Management system.

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The Atari 2600:

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Let’s take a look at that rear suspension. When I get it on a lift and clean it up, I should be able to get a better understanding how it did work when independent and how it currently works (solid beam).

This is the point on the driver side where it mounts to a very reinforced frame (same on passenger size). This frame continues to the front of the car going through the rockers (they were split open). I am unsure if the frame in the rocker panels is the same size as what was used in the rear.

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Center mounting mount.

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Showing how the independent suspension worked.

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Moving back inside..

Custom mounting of the steering column (does not pass through the firewall in the stock location… and goes to the power steering rack mounted on a MK2 Golf subframe); brake master cylinder (there is no brake booster); giant brake pedal, etc.

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Steering column upper mount and indentions for feet on the floor.

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Inside there is the raised shifter with the rod going through the firewall… this is normally under the car in the tunnel.

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The following pictures do not do this justice. When I remove the engine, I will make sure to get photos of this excellent engineering. This creates a very solid feeling shifter. Think about the level of effort and creativity that went into this!

The plan right now (and I need to do some measuring to make sure everything fits; especially with ground clearance) is to use the 02M 6-speed cable shift transmission.

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Moving under the hood gives a lot of stuff to look at… the stock interior airbox/fan location is blocked off; the interior heater lines go through the firewall in a different spot, and what is the large hole in the fire wall with all the wires?

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Another picture of that hole… this is where that dryer vent tubing mounted to bring fresh air into the car. I don’t know what that thing is with the three wires with red covers is.

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Inside is the fan…

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And a custom airbox.

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The fuel lines come from the back of the car, runs along the floor, and then goes through the firewall. Pretty slick.

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Time to cut out the cage…

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Removing the large sections of the cage was easy with the new AC/DC 7” angle grinder with a cutting wheel. Wood is there to protect the car when the cutting wheel jumps while cutting.

The hard part was dealing with where the cage actually mounted to the car as it was difficult to get the cutting wheel in there. I had to keep sectioning the tubes until they were down enough to use the 7” grinding wheel to make it flush with the body.

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Done!

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A dent in the roof.

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Since the cage was out, Jodi (Creep), who is doing the body work and a lot of the fabrication to make my modern stuff work in an older car, fixed the dent. Not too exciting, but this is actually the FIRST step forward in this project.

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What happens when the wife goes to bed early and I don’t want to do anything that makes a lot of noise. No alcohol was involved in this little adventure.

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Coming in the next exciting issue of Rabbit Farmer Chronicles:

The Golf IV gets a Nothing Leaves Stock (NLS) clutch slave shim kit and a Luk metal clutch slave cylinder/throw-out bearing (from USP Motorsports)… and perhaps a new clutch (we will see)… to help address the dragging clutch issue.

The Golf IV also gets an electric vacuum pump to provide vacuum to the break booster to avoid the turbo induced hard pedal issue that I had at Mt. Washington (where I got very creative with my parking on the edge of a cliff… well, it wasn’t a huge cliff, but I could have twisted my ankle in it or something like that.)
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Re: Rabbit Farmer's various VW Projects

Post by Butch#178 »

Steve I believe that that unit with the 3 red wires is a form of a resistor for the fan control. I am not sure because it has been aaaaaawwwwwhhhhiiiiiiiilllllllllleee since I have seen one :D :lol: :geek:
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Re: Rabbit Farmer's various VW Projects

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Butch#178 wrote: Fri Feb 22, 2019 7:51 pm Steve I believe that that unit with the 3 red wires is a form of a resistor for the fan control. I am not sure because it has been aaaaaawwwwwhhhhiiiiiiiilllllllllleee since I have seen one :D :lol: :geek:
My guess also that it deals with the fan, but unsure how. Temperature?
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Re: Rabbit Farmer's various VW Projects

Post by dsldubn »

years ago when Justin Carven and I were both running rabbits he kept destroying rear beams at stage rallies. He put together an IRS for his rabbit. I have a pile of pictures and stuff from the experiment.
Long story short, IRS in a rabbit was awful. Your mileage may vary...but the car was much better with the torsion beam
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Re: Rabbit Farmer's various VW Projects

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dsldubn wrote: Tue Mar 12, 2019 4:11 pm years ago when Justin Carven and I were both running rabbits he kept destroying rear beams at stage rallies. He put together an IRS for his rabbit. I have a pile of pictures and stuff from the experiment.
Long story short, IRS in a rabbit was awful. Your mileage may vary...but the car was much better with the torsion beam
Would love to see that setup. And pictures of your Willy.
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Re: Rabbit Farmer's various VW Projects

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Lots of activity, but not a lot of progress.

We headed to... well, time for a joke.

Did you know that CAN was the original spelling for Canada. Yep. It was just call CAN. Then someone from CAN spelled it for someone else. It was C-ah N-ah D-ah, which finally ended up being Canada. True story. Look it up.

Anyway, we headed up to Canada to visit Ikea. Pretty cool place when you have a free 3 hours.

Next, we headed over to Fred's place (Tech-53; http://www.tech-53.com/) to check out his cars. Fred has a full time job in the real world, but has a big shop where he builds the cars that he races and loves to fabricate. Lots of MK1 performance parts on his site... check it out.

Julie (the little woman) loved the place and enjoyed the conversation. Good times.

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Meanwhile, back in the states, (and not car related) we headed down for some Mumord and Sons. Excellent show at the Dunkin Donuts Arena in Providence, RI. Loved the show!

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Later, when the unicorns ran free in the fields, a stand rally MK3 showed up for dinner.

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Back at the ranch working on the MK4. I have a few things to do to the car to get it ready for the 2019 hillclimb season.

First... let's make sure it is a straight. The body was straightened out last winter, but for some reason I could not dial in the correct negative camber for the driver's side. Something MUST be bent. Thinking back to the 2010 off road excursion (not mentioning any names), it seems that I did not replace the subframe. Good place to start in 2019.

So, based on the MK4 dimensions that I got from Fred (Tech-53), we measured the car.

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The fancy bodywork measuring tool thanks to friend/neighbor Kyle.

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Based on our measurements, the driver's side subframe was bent inward by 3/8". Seems to be the reason I cannot get my negative camber dialed in correctly on that side.

So, ordered a complete/loaded sub-frame from Pegasus Racing.

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I also have to deal with a dragging clutch. Removed the engine/transmission for the aforementioned NLS shim kit and metal/composite throwout bearing.

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Seems the Kales Custom exhaust manifold is holding up after all these years and still looking fantastic. Perhaps I will polish it up a bit if I have free time.

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And... new halo style seat from https://www.murraymotorsport.com/. Half price of what I could find locally, $46 shipping for seat and two sets of brackets, and arrived within 8 days. Sweet.

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Shown in picture are the new and old seats. I am hoping the old driver's seat will fit into the Scirocco (tight fit, we will see) and the new seat (which is actually for the Scirococo) will work in both the Golf IV and the Scirocco I.

If it works, I will purchase another seat.
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Re: Rabbit Farmer's various VW Projects

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The Historic Mt. Philo Hillclimb is in May this year… this means that I have a lot to do to the car… unexpectedly… and help organize the event. Yay!

As with any project, you start out thinking that you just need to replace a light bulb, but then you notice you have to fix the shelf, fix the drawer, get a can of WD-40, and then replace your car engine. It is all related. Search the magical Youtube for “Hal replacing light bulb” get caught-up with the joke.

My light bulb was supposed to be the subframe and hanging clutch… you know, minor stuff like that.

-- The SHELF --

When I had the engine out, I noticed the engine mount (passenger side) was about as loose as throwing a hot dog down the hallway. The good news was that I had an extra 034EFI Track Density motor mount (same as what was already in there) as I replace the transmission mount (also 034EFI Track Density) in 2017 and they were sold as a pair.

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I decided to check the transmission mount (driver’s side) and that had a lot of movement. What the @#$%? I just replaced it in 2017.

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I decided there had to be a better option out there that did not require an expensive replacement of the entire mount when it failed prematurely. I purchased the VF Engineering transmission mount from UroTuning.com. Very quick turn-around with order and replied exceptionally fast to my technical questions via email. Major thumbs up!

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Back to the light bulb. I installed the Nothing Leaves Stock (NLS) 02M 6-speed shim kit (very straight forward) and the new Luk brand more-metal-than-plastic throw out bearing/slave cylinder that I got from UroTuning.com. Turns out that I already had this in my car… but, while in there, out with the old and in with the new (or regret it later).

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Installed… nothing too exciting, but I will remember it in the future when I have the transmission out of the car. It will happen… I have heard of it happening before… once or twice.

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Naturally, since the transmission is off, we might as well check out the Spec 2+ (I always thought it was 3+, but I’m pretty sure it is 2+) clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel that was installed in 2010. Wow!

It looked awesome! So, just need to reinstall it.

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-- The DRAWER --

But, since I noticed that the non-stretch bolts were looking a little rounded (they are hex heads), I decided to hunt down six new bolts.

They are M8 (8mm), 1.25 pitch, 16mm long (bottom of head to end of bolt), grade 12.9, DIN 912 (socket head screws), and black-oxide steel.

Of course, I know what all this means now as I head to search to the ends of the internet to find them. (DIN was new to me and I wasn’t sure how grade 12.9 compared to the 8.8 that I was used to for seat belt bolts)

I ended up getting them from the Nutty Company in CT (www.nutty.com) as they had a good price on 30 bolts and the shipping was reasonable. It was cheaper than purchasing locally from Fastenal.

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-- The WD-40 --

I replaced both fender liners in the front. I have done this in the past, but when there was an issue with securing them properly, the tires wore them out due to contact. Opps.

I also noticed that the plug that goes to the radiator fans was broken (been ignoring it for a while), so I ordered a new one (guaranteed for life!) from FCP Euro (www.fcpeuro.com). Quick, efficient, and pleasant ordering experience. Recommended!

There is a great article on GRM here: https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/artic ... ore-world/

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-- The ENGINE --

Thankfully, when I had the subframe off, I checked out the power steering rack. The hard lines were very rusty. I checked with the local VW parts place and they said the lines are not available individually (nor are the little metal clips that hold them one). New rack was over $800. Nope… manual steering would happen before I spent $800 here.

Refurbished racks weren’t too expensive, but were a bit more than I wanted to spend.

Plus, I wanted to solve the problem, not just delay it for… heck, I guess for 18 years isn’t that bad.

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Internet searching brought me to EAA Engineering (www.eaaengineering.com)... Again. Yep, I was there before looking at these lines. Now, it seemed that I needed them.

This kit would take care of the hard lines that needed to be replaced.

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This took care of all the other lines. I will be nice to not have to worry about them in the future.

Plus, I noticed they have a “1.8T engine swap with the MK2 power steering rack” kit, which will work quite well with the Scirocco as it has the MK2 rack. Well, that is my understanding anyway. More to come a bit down the road.

Anyway, engine and sub-frame are sitting on the floor pending the arrival of the hoses.

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I fixed the beat to hell heat shield that is over the power steering rack. $27 for a new shield (that will get beat to hell) or four rivets (hammered flat) and some sheet metal. Done.

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Rattle rattle rattle goes the heat shield under the car. Enter some do-hickies to rectify the problem.

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Seat is kind of installed. I mounted the new Sparco side mounts. The new mounts are slightly different from my older Sparco mounts… I swapped them because the new brackets allowed for the correct width to mount the seat.

Everything on the mounts and seat are loose for the test fit. It will all come out as I change the mounting points for the 6-point harness submarine belt.

The new seat is a bit lower (I have it at the highest setting on the side mounts). I need to put the seats side by side to see why they are so different. It will work, but a change to the mount on the car (the welded in tubing that forms the base) might be in order.

Also, with the halo style seat, I now wish I got a removable steering wheel to help with entry/exit.

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Of course, with all the times that I had to access my tool boxes and head out to the shed or trailer to get parts, I finally ordered matching locks for my toolbox (instead of having two different keys) and fixed that @#$%#ing blinking exterior light. I got a quick education from www.ledsupply.com (great site, good information, quick turn-around) on what was wrong and how to identify the exact driver I needed to fix the light.

That is all for exciting news.

Next update should have car 100% done with the exception of needed to add back the mounting points on the subframe for the skid plate (threaded inserts x 4) and ordering new tires (that won’t be cheap!)
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Re: Rabbit Farmer's various VW Projects

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How about a whole season in one post!

I am happy to report that we seemed to have a pretty smooth season this year… nothing broke. (or I am just very forgetful)

---- To catch up with the 1980 MK1 Scirocco ----

Thanks to a lot of expertise and advice from the members of the New England Hillclimb Association (NEHA), especially John Reed for the information on the different properties of some of the typical roll cage tubing, we settled on using the Rocal R-8.

Joey Kale (who is doing the cage) said this has been some pretty tough stuff to bend. Very impressive.

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The Scirocco at Joey’s shop in June 2019

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Some updates throughout the summer… main hoop installed.

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The new halo seat (that I used the entire 2019 season in the Golf) is made to fit and the old Sparco seat (my old Golf IV seat) is being used for the passenger side after some modification to the center tunnel to make it fit.

I plan to buy another halo seat so that both the MK1 Scirocco and MK4 Golf have the same seat.

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Cutting out some of the light sheet metal to mount the main hoop to the non-stock framework that was built into the unibody of the Scirocco to stiffen the chassis and create better platform to build the original cage.

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A lot of the tubing is cut and ready to install in October 2019.

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The time to get a spare part is when you don’t need it and there is a deal. My brother (Andy… still plays with cars) ordered three new M1 Scirocco windshields… of which I purchased one of them.

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Pretty cool custom “Rabbit Farmer” badge that I plan to install on the Scirocco. It looks identical to the stock MK1 Rabbit badges. Very good quality. I highly recommend.

Vendor:
Pop Zombie Laserkraft
www.facebook.com/PZLaserkraft
pzlaserkraft@gmail.com

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---- Updates to the MK4 Golf ----

The earlier posts showed the power steering lines that I planned to install.

Here is what arrived for the complete kit for the Golf.

Two braided steel lines for the rack
One braided steel/rubber line from the rack the power steering pump
One rubber line from the rack to the reservoir

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The lines on the actual power steer rack seemed to fit good. Great quality.

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The lines almost installed on the rack. I did grind the rust and repaint the clips that hold the lines to the rack. These are parts that do not seem to be available on the aftermarket.

Kinda like the power steering lines… you need to purchase the entire complete rack to replace the lines.

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For some reason, the line that went from the rack to the reservoir seemed to be too short. I spoke with the company and they tell me that the line was the correct size, but I didn’t see how it worked.

With the limited time before the first event of the season (first time since the 1970s that the Mt. Philo hillclimb is in the spring) I ended up not using that line. I also returned the line that went from the rack to the pump as it wasn’t needed as what I had was in good condition.

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For the original line that went from the rack to the reservoir, I sanded the metal surfaces to remove the rust, painted with high-temp black paint, and put a Cool It / Thermo Tec heat shield around the line from the rack up the firewall.

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Since the last time that I purchased tires was for the 2017 Mt. Washington Hillclimb (I normally purchased a set every 1.5 seasons… they were getting VERY thin mid-2018 season), I purchased another set of Toyo R888R tires 235-40-17.

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I noticed that there was a still leak under the engine (noticed it last season also thanks to the skid plate catching everything). In 2018, it seemed to be some loose bolts on the metal part of the oil pan (this is the hybrid aluminum/metal pan). I torqued them.

At the start of the 2019 season, I removed the metal portion, cleaned it along with the bolts and engine block, and reinstalled everything using Permatex Ultra Black.

It still seems to be leaking a bit come the end of the 2019 season, so that will be another project over the 2019-2020 winter. I might just return to the all-aluminum one-piece pan. I have a robust skid plate to protect the pan. We will see.

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I noticed that one of the holes in the transmission mounting bracket was a little stripped. It must have been a little stripped by the constant removal/reinstall over the years, but it was never noticed until I install the VF Engineering mount that uses shorter bolts. I guess the threads that actually worked were at the bottom of the hole.

Since I did not have a spare bracket that mounts to the transmission (well, at least not for the 6-speed), Joey Kale was going to install a HeliCoil to rectify the issue.

Turns out the HeliCoil thread was exactly the same as a bolt he had, so we just used the larger bolt.

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Time for some new front brake rotors. In the second image you can see the ridge on the edge of the old rotor.

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And the final thing needed for the 2019 season was the reinstall of the skid plate threaded mounting points on the subframe… I replaced the subframe earlier as it was 3/8” out of true. That is Joey under the car doing the welding. Thanks to my friend Chris Achilles for coming over to install a 50amp outlet in the garage so that we could plug in the welder. Good thing I had a 100amp panel installed in the garage shortly after moving it.

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And… the first hillclimb of the year! Mt Philo in the spring. (same for 2020)

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The season progressed with zero (recallable) issues. We heard that the Mt. Ascutney hillclimb in the fall was going to run the full 3.6 mile hill course.

My favorite hill of the NEHA series, but over the past 10 years +/- it has gotten very bumpy between checkpoint 7 and the normal finish line at the 2.8 mile mark.

The fall 2019 event will bring us to the very top of the course at 3.6 miles.

My suspension was built back when the hill was a lot smoother. I believe that the bumps, a little airborne with the hard springs with some wheel spin, followed by the shock to the drivetrain upon the wheel making contact again (lots of grip) has been the cause to transmission and axle failures over the years.

Digging up an old photo from 2006 that shows the Shine Racing suspension prior to install.

Front: 8” 500# spring
Rear: 8” 350# spring

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I borrowed some springs from Chris Putzier (he does a lot of rallying since… well, forever ago) to try.

Rear: 10” 140# spring replaced the 8” 350#

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Originally, before Chris offered the loan of the softer springs, I looked at some alternative tender spring options for the springs sitting in my tool box.

The current setup was the 8” 500# spring with a helper spring (0# spring rate).

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I had a 3” 200# tender spring that I thought of trying (remove the helper spring), but it seemed that it was too long.

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Front: 12” 130# spring replaced the 8” 500#

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Fronts installed.

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Because I now had softer springs, there would be more body roll… so, I reinstalled the Shine Racing anti-sway bar.

I originally removed it during a HPDE day at New Hampshire Motor Speedway (NHMS) where it was raining and the combination of stiff springs and the big anti-sway bar created some undesirable oversteer.

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When installing the tire, I noticed that the wire that goes to the wheel speed sensor (used for ABS) was damaged as it was making contact with the rim. Something that I will replace during the 2019-2020 winter. For now, addressed the wires with issues and wrapped it in electrical tape.

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Both sides of the front now have wheel spacers.

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During the fall Ascutney event. Nothing broke.

Even though I thought the new softer suspension would help suck up the harsh bumps (and protect my axles from breaking), I did take it easy as I only had one replacement driver’s side axle. My times show slower times to the traditional finish at the 2.8 mile mark.

Best time 2:56 (2016)
Fall 2019 3:02.17 (traditional) and 3:49.27 (full hill)

I got into it on Sunday after a few easy runs, but put it in the trailer early as I had to get home to my lovely wife.

While the softer springs did help with the bumps, they were actually too soft.

Winter 2019-2020 will provide a new suspension that has a better spring rate that will work for all the hills (I will keep the stiffer springs for the track) and adjustable shocks/struts.

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Re: Rabbit Farmer's various VW Projects

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The research continues on the upgrade for my suspension.

Something with good suspension travel, adjustable struts/stocks (two way), beefier construction, etc.

I looked at some brands and after contacting the company found they were outside of my racing budget. (i.e. Ohlin and Reigers)

Great quality, but I need to eat also!

My research for "racing coilovers" kept bringing up brands that use "racing" in their names (i.e. BC Racing) that might not have meet my needs.

KW Competition did come up in my research, but I am unsure (like I don't know) about the quality of the product. Anyone with insight?

So, three options that did come up were:

D2
https://d2racingsport.eu/
Rally Asphalt Coilover Kit - #D-VO-23-RA - Volkswagen JETTA 4-MK4 (2WD)
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K Sport didn't seem to have anything that fit my car.
https://ksportusa.com
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And finally...
Gaz Gold Coilovers
VW Golf Mk4 2WD Gaz Gold Coilover Suspension Kit
https://gazcoilovers.com/vw-golf-mk4-2w ... t-96-p.asp

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I sent an email to Gaz to start that conversation.

What I like, so far, about Gaz, is that they seem to be speaking the language of "racing" while they still seem to be in my budget (assuming I'm converting that crazy looking L to the $ properly).

They also have the cheaper GHA coilovers (and this is what peaked my interest), but they stated:
"The GHA kit is not recommended for cars running semi slick track day tyres or full racing slicks as they are not designed to accept the high side loadings the extra grip of these tyres exert on the main seals and bearings within the dampers. If you run these tyres, you will be better served by our Gaz GOLD coilover range."

Great... so, the Gold is the better option for racing. They recognize side loading and the strength of the suspension.

What really caught my attention with the Gaz Gold are all the options available to setup the coilovers right down to their assistant with picking the correct spring rates for the type of racing you do. Sweet!

Going back at little bit in time, I was having a conversation with MurrayMotorsport.com (great company! highly recommend them) about Gaz coilovers, but the Gaz brand doesn't seem to be on their site anymore. I do see in their 2019 catalog, that they have Proflex, Ohlins, Gaz, Koni, Bilstein, etc. available. Unsure which is current.

Research continues.

Lots of upgrades to various parts throughout the car. Going to be a busy winter/spring in preparation for the first hillclimb of the year in May.

Lots of snow forecasted for the next few days. Good excuse to spend some time in the garage working on the car and doing research for parts.

Still having an issue finding good lightweight rims (17 x 8) that aren't crazy expensive.

Steve
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Re: Rabbit Farmer's various VW Projects

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A few updates, but no real progress on the Golf.

Planned for this weekend is a compression and leak down test. I haven't used the lead down tester yet, but I get the general idea. I might be a YouTube-certified Master Leak Down Tester by tomorrow.

The few things that I have been researching are spare rims (perhaps a little lighter) and a better coilover suspension.

Rim research continues, but I haven't narrowed it down yet.

I know it will be 17x8, 5x100, ET35, around 22-23 pounds, and around $150. And a dark color... I like black and gun metal. There are a number of options on Tire Rack that caught my attention.

The current rims that I purchased back in 2003 are quite heavy coming in at 26.8 pounds. The company that made the rims hasn't been around for a very long time. Edge Racing. I purchased them because they were $99 each.

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Part of getting ready for the 2020 season is to make sure that I have extra parts and purchased some basic maintenance parts.

HANS replacement tether (dated 2020) from Summit Racing.
Simpson model number TK 1231.4

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Extra 2.5 and 3.0 silicone couplers and T-bolt clamps from Mishimoto (New Castle, DE)

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I often thought that if I dropped just one lugnut that I would not be able to drive. So... I ordered 20 new nuts from 034 Motorsports.

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From FCP Euro, new bolts for the trailing arm bushings, new wheel bearings, speed sensor wire (front left was damaged), and rear spring rubber perch are all going in now. The ball joints are spares.

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For tools that love to fly across the garage when in use, the strut spreader is one of those. The current tool I have is just the bit that I have to insert into a 9mm (or so) socket to use it. Enter the Metal Nerd strut spreading bit with a larger end for easier handling. I might glue it into a socket since everything at Sears is (was?) on sale. I picked up two of these tools due to the likelihood of them taking flight. Ordered from UroTuning.

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Now the fun stuff.... Rear trailing arm bushings with spherical bearings from 034 Motorsports. (that's what I needed the new bolts for)

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One problem that I have experienced over the years is that the brake pedal was a solid rock when it was used during or shortly after full boost. Bit me at Mt Washington in 2017.

Enter an electric vacuum pump from Leed.

This is the Bandit pump in black. It is approx 8" tall. I thought it was a bit smaller when ordering it as I had plans to install it under the hood, but since it is quite large, it will end up in the back of the car.

Ordered from Summit Racing.

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I settled on Gaz Coilovers "VW Golf MK4 2WD Gas Gold"

https://gazcoilovers.com/vw-golf-mk4-2w ... t-96-p.asp

9" springs. Front 400# and rear 350# with everything valved accordingly.

Able to adjust the rebound and compression damping.

I had to measure the current spherical bearing in the Cusco (part number 566-410-A for "Mitsubishi Lancer Evo X (08-13)"... reminder for myself when I am trying to recall what I have) pillow top to ensure the Gaz shaft was machined to the correct spec.

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Go Fast VW & Audi parts at FastAddiction.com
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