NEHA

sdwarf36 wrote: And Walter-if someone starts an argument with you in tech about what percentage they have-let me know-i'll come over + kick them in the nuts for you.

Jeez, going to have to add a cup to the suggested safety equipment list.

sdwarf36 wrote:For anyone thats new to the rules making process within the last 5 years or so-we used to have an "unwritten"rule that we were gonna do everything we could to keep the rules under 2 pages (hell-there was once a vote to NOT change the rules any more that ALMOST passed! )

That being said-the thing to remember is Don+ Walt have our best interests at heart-the club just needs a guide to let them know what we want-they enforce with common sense and experience. So (for example) just saying"no antifreeze" is fine-- going on and on about percentages-brands-colors etc etc. just make for a longer meeting-and more aggravated racers waiting for people to stop making a short story long (and longer to get to the bar.) We shouldn't need a litigation lawyer in the writing or interpretation of any of our rules.
And Walter-if someone starts an argument with you in tech about what percentage they have-let me know-i'll come over + kick them in the nuts for you.

Thanks, that will be your new job... I think if you ask, you will find some rally competitors who think I am already certified as a ball breaker at RNY.

" My name is Al Phee, and anybody asks me what's it all about gets a boot in the clackers!"

From Spider Robinson's "Callahan's Crosstime Saloon"

sdwarf36 wrote:For anyone thats new to the rules making process within the last 5 years or so-we used to have an "unwritten"rule that we were gonna do everything we could to keep the rules under 2 pages (hell-there was once a vote to NOT change the rules any more that ALMOST passed! )

Yeah we did finally lose the battle to keep each rules section under two pages but there is still an unwritten rule that rules should be short and simple so we don't end up with pages and pages of rules. I'm with Sherm keep it simple.

sachilles wrote:Jeez, going to have to add a cup to the suggested safety equipment list.

I wonder if anyone makes a fire resistant version? Do SFI or FIA have a cup spec?

KevinGale wrote:

sachilles wrote:Jeez, going to have to add a cup to the suggested safety equipment list.

I wonder if anyone makes a fire resistant version? Do SFI or FIA have a cup spec?

The first testicular guard, the "Cup," was used in Hockey in 1874 and the
first helmet was used in 1974. That means it only took 100 years for men to
realize that their brain is also important.

Well this was voted down, and of all things the person that inspired it to begin with made an impassioned flat earth society style speech about how he wasnt responsible for any delays and screw the bunnies and grass along the road...

The ONLY comment against it that I heard that has merit was Don T told me privately that he needs the antifreeze mix to raise his boiling point because he can reach upwards of 250 degrees on the hill. FYI I have learned (wonderful thing the internet) 15psi of coolant pressure will increase coolant boiling point 40-45 degrees and antifreeze can add 10-15 to the 212 water point.

Be that as it may, I am still interested in running an environmentally and race surface responsible coolant mix and I know many others are as well.

One thing I am coming across that is not perfectly clear is the use of distilled water versus softened/de-mineralized.

It first came to my attention when I was reading the Amsoil literature for their water wetter called Coolant Boost. They warn against using distilled water and recommend instead softened water. I asked the technical support line why and this is their response: "When using just distilled water, the water acts as a electrolyte. This in turn causes electrolysis to occur. Softened water will not act as an electrolyte, thereby minimizing damage from electrolysis. Although softened water is preferred."

Here the internet has been more confusing than helpful because I see it written both ways and I see a lot of what might be politely described and pseudo-scientific explanations backing up the position either way.

One thing all the water wetter style additives claim to possess are additives to help deal with small amounts whatever bad is (or happens that is bad) in the water.

I have begun reading about properties of distilled and deionized or purified water and what happens over time to it and to it when in contact with refined metals, but I am nowhere near the end of this. Anyone have knowledge of this that can shorten my journey and perhaps enlighten us all?

Walter we all know that using water will chew the headgasket and blow the turbo immediately.

Isn't that just Audis?

Another point to ponder-i would say that most of us in SP-P-FL dont put tens of thousands of miles on our cars between any service-like the average consumer. If you filled you rad up in May-and drained it in Oct, how many miles you actually get? 150? ( I know some of the cars in SP are somewhat street driven-but still..) I did do some heavy reading on cavitation-strictly a large diesel problem-nothing that concerns us any.

What kind of boiling point do you get with one of these?